Tour of Vietnam 2023 | Day 9 | Pho Rang – SaPa | 139 kms

I wake up around 5 am and quickly get ready to avoid being late for breakfast at 7 am. After freshening up, I take a soothing hot bath—my first morning bath. I load my motorcycle and settle my homestay bill of 200,000 VND, receiving my passport back in return. I arrive at the restaurant right at 7 am, and as I remove my helmet, Diana arrives with her mom. We order Bun Ca and Pho, and soon after, Mo and her father join us.

We chat with the two girls about school life. Diana is in 5th grade and Mo is in 6th, attending different schools. They are connected because their moms, both teachers, know each other. Eating a large bowl of pho this early in the morning feels daunting. To make it worse, Diana’s mom insists I add more veggies and sprouts.

The bowl’s level isn’t decreasing. Soon, Diana’s third friend, Julia, joins us; she attends the same school as Diana. We discuss hobbies, sports, favorite subjects, and weekend and Christmas plans. I enjoy talking to these kids and learning more about them, as they converse well in English.

We head to the coffee shop where we had coffee the night before. The girls order jelly yogurt while I get a black coffee. After chatting for a while, we take a group photo and say our goodbyes, wishing each other well. It’s time for me to continue to SaPa. The weather is cloudy as I make my way to Lao Cai, the town bordering China. Traffic is typical, with little change in the scenery. I stop in Lao Cai to see the Chinese side of the border. By 10:15 am, I arrive in Lao Cai.

After a brief ride along the border road, I park my bike in a temple lot next to the immigration building. From here, I can see Chinese buildings with signs in Chinese and a railway track leading into China, secured by gates at either end with officials nearby. Close to the temple, a bridge connects the two countries, with people crossing from both sides. A local man informs me that only those with visas are allowed to cross. The travelers seem to be in vacation mode. I purchase half a kilogram of dried ‘Ber’ fruit for 60,000 VND, and it tastes quite good.

I continue towards SaPa as the winding roads lead me away from Láo Cai, increasing in elevation. The temperature drops and the scenery becomes misty. Along the roadside, numerous plant shops sell stunning orchids that catch my eye.

There are many color varieties here. SaPa town is elevated, and as I reach the top, I find a large street market ahead of me, just before noon. I initially didn’t plan to stay in SaPa, as I’ve heard it’s quite touristy. I browse the market, where vendors sell everything from household items to vegetables and meat, and street food is being prepared. I’m considering my options for places to explore nearby.

I’m fond of this place, and the photos are quite picturesque. It’s a garden with man-made structures where people take photos. I marked it on my maps and decided to go, which is about 2 km away. I passed through Sa Pa city center and arrived at the garden. Originally, I thought entry was free, but the ticket costs a steep 80,000 VND. With no other option, I decided to pay for a ticket.

The spot overlooks the valley, and many people are taking photos. I also take some pictures with the beautiful structures, with help from the tourists. The cold is biting. In the distance, I see the cable car ascending to ‘Fansipan’ mountain, which is completely shrouded in fog. After my photo session, I prepare instant coffee in the garden café and thank the café girl for lending me hot water. It’s almost 1 PM as I look for other places to explore. There are many nearby attractions, but carrying my luggage on the bike will be a challenge.

I decide to stay overnight in SaPa to explore comfortably and visit the evening street market, as my friend recommended. I book ‘Venus hostel’ for 150,000 VND on Booking.com due to its good reviews and convenient location near the city center and main markets.

I check in the hostel. It’s super comfy, neat and clean. The owner is jovial and helps me carry my luggage onto 2nd floor.

I quickly freshen up, and following the owner’s recommendation, I decide to visit the ethnic community town of Ta Van, home to the Hmong people. I enter the location into Google Maps, which shows it to be 20 km away. However, after riding for only 5-6 km, I find that I’ve already passed through the town, suggesting I had marked the location incorrectly.

I realize I’m in Ta Van as I see numerous plaques and homestay signs bearing its name. Many women in traditional dress pass by, and I am soon stopped by a group of three who ask me to park my bike because the road ahead is for pedestrians only. The women carry bamboo baskets and attempt to sell me local handwoven items. I politely inform them that I’m currently more interested in exploring the town.

The conversation takes place in broken English, and they seem to communicate similarly. Years of interacting with tourists must have helped them understand and speak the language. While two-thirds of the ladies leave when they realize I won’t buy anything, one lady remains and offers to show me the town in exchange for a purchase. We strike a deal, and she guides me through the narrow streets, bringing me to the rice terraces. The views of Sa Pa and the surrounding mountains are stunning from this vantage point.

As we walk through the town, I notice the detailed vegetable gardens each household has created in front of their homes. It’s a wonderful experience, lasting about 30 minutes, before we return to the parking lot where we started. I thank her for sharing her time and helping me get to know the area. I purchase a hand-woven wall hanging for 200,000 VND. It’s nearly 4 pm, and I plan to return to SaPa via a different route that goes through another Hmong community. Along the way, I stop at a handicraft shop run by local women, drawn in by the colorful items on display. Inside, I find various crafts, including wall hangings, hand-embroidered portraits, chopsticks, handbags, purses, and bamboo table mats. I particularly like a hand-embroidered portrait of the rice terraces of Sapa, so I buy it for 100,000 VND, along with a set of six bamboo table mats for my sister.

After finishing my shopping, I return to the hostel, arriving just as it gets dark. I quickly freshen up and head to the town square. My first stop is a large exhibition in an open area, featuring a variety of goods, from household items to electronics, street food, and clothing. I enjoy exploring the many new sights, especially the tempting street food, though I refrain from trying any. Most of the products, particularly in the electronics, clothing, and footwear sections, are Chinese, so I decide against making any purchases.

I head out to the Square for a walk, enjoying the beautiful view of restaurants adorned with lanterns and lights. The entire town sparkles. I explore each shop, pausing to take photos of anything interesting. The streets are bustling with locals and tourists alike. I try boiled Chinese chestnuts, which taste delightful. I make my way to the open amphitheater, where street performances are underway. Four performers—two boys and two girls—execute a captivating local dance with rapid movements synchronized to the music. Nearby, a mass is taking place in a church, adding to the lively atmosphere. I snap some photos with Vietnamese people near the amphitheater, who are eager to pose with me. It’s a wonderful experience, with everyone in high spirits.

I explore more around before settling in a coffee shop to continue writing my diary. Later in the evening, the crowd start to disperse. The time is around 11pm.

I enjoyed a Bahn Mi for dinner and had an almond chocolate for dessert before heading back to my hostel to sleep. Tomorrow, I begin my journey south, leaving the mountains behind. I’m glad I chose to spend the night in SaPa; the people there deeply touched me, and I’ll cherish this memory forever. I collapsed onto the bed after setting an early alarm for 5 am.