Tour of Vietnam 2023 | Day 8 | Yên Minh – Pho Rang | 299 kms

I wake up at 6:15 am and start packing right away. I’ve already taken a bath, so I only need to brush my teeth and use the bathroom. I’m ready to load my luggage by 7 am. I make coffee and pay the homestay bill of 230,000 VND. Today’s destination is set for Sa Pa, despite it being over 400 km away. The plan is simply to ride and enjoy the views, with no specific stops planned.

I begin my journey as soon as it’s bright enough outside. At the spot where I stopped yesterday, I find a board marking the city name ‘YEN MINH.’ I lean my bike against it and take a photo. From there, I embark on my journey, starting with an ascent that offers stunning views of the rice terraces. I pause to admire them and take some pictures.

I descend into the valley as the sun begins to emerge from the clouds. At a roadside stall, I buy some bread and enjoy it with my self-made coffee. The kind owner provides me with hot water. After that, I ride in the sun, climbing and descending mountain passes. At one pass, I admire the beautiful view of the valley, where farmlands display various shades of green and houses with colorful roofs dot the landscape. It’s a breathtaking sight, attracting many tourists. I take some photos before moving on. Later, I encounter a police checkpoint. The officer asks for my license, which I show him, and then requests my International driving license, which I gladly provide. He takes both documents to his colleagues for discussion. Afterward, he returns with a smile and tells me I can go. Ecstatic, I ask if I can take a photo with him, and he happily agrees.

I stop frequently to admire the stunning views of the rice terraces and arrive in Ha Giang by 11 am. Along the way, I purchase semi-ripe ‘Ber’ fruit from a roadside seller, who also provides me with a mix of chili powder and salt, instructing me on the proper way to enjoy it.

The taste buds are treated to a blend of sweet, sour, and spicy flavors. I buy 250 grams and nearly finish it. I’ve charted a northern route parallel to the China border, connecting to the main Ha Giang loop. Since I’m keen to explore more remote areas, I plan for this route, believing that taking an unusual path may lead to unexpected surprises.

I am pleased with my route, as the stunning views are captivating. I am passing through villages inhabited by ethnic minorities, offering a fresh perspective for both them and me. The colorful attire of the local women is a delightful sight, something I haven’t encountered in the past week.

Excitement quickly turns to disaster after traveling 40 km on offbeat roads, only to reach a dead end. The onward path is too narrow and rough for my big bike, suitable only for lightweight mopeds, and it ascends steeply, adding to the fear. I park my bike before the slope begins and walk the first two loops, concluding that the road is impassable. When I ask some local boys for help, I’m shocked to learn that there is no alternative route—I must retrace my steps. Thus begins the arduous journey of backtracking.

I arrive in Ha Giang city center around 4 pm and grab a coffee at a local shop before continuing on the main loop road, aiming to cover as much distance as possible before dark. Just before sunset, I capture a stunning photo of my bike against the backdrop of the setting sun painting the sky orange. I check the next city name and the distance on the board. After traveling 20 km after sundown, I reach Pho Rang and immediately book the first homestay I see, which has a clean room available. After cleaning up, I head into town to explore and eat, as the homestay, NHA NGHI QUYEN ANH 9999, does not serve food. The brightly colored LED billboard caught my attention.

While strolling through town, I encounter a group of cheerful children who bombard me with amusingquestions. I respond to them one by one. We take a group photo and wish each other a Merry Christmas before parting ways. Afterwards, I find a nearby restaurant and request a light dinner.

I’m not in the mood for Bun Ca or Phó, which seem to be the main dishes here. I ask for something light, and he serves me soup with ramen noodles, which tastes great with added chili and garlic. After paying my bill and planning to return to my homestay, I notice a group of men on bikes who are eager to take a photo with me. Just then, a mother and daughter stop nearby; the mother invites me for coffee at a café, explaining that her daughter wants to practice her English with me. It’s a wonderful experience. We go to the café, and while her mother chats with the owner, Diana and I engage in a casual conversation filled with questions. Diana shares that she aspires to be a queen when she grows up.

The talk goes on for like 30 mins before we decide to wrap the day as it’s almost 11pm. I really like the experience and am overall happy with how it went. It’s something out of this world for me as I couldn’t have envisaged such a thing. Mother again requests me to join for breakfast tomorrow at a place opposite to the cafe around 7 am where Diana’s friends will also join. I happily accept their invite and leave for the homestay saying good bye to all of them. Before sleeping. I put an alarm for 5 am.