Tour of Vietnam 2023 | Day 7 | Cần Yên – Yên Minh | 232 kms

I wake up around 5:30 am and am ready by 6:30 am. After enjoying my pre-mixed, ready-made coffee, I pay the ever-smiling owner 220,000 VND and leave by 6:45 am. As I gain altitude, I encounter several loops. The view from the top is great, but the sky is still cloudy and the weather is cold. The handlebar warmers are very useful. The homestay is called “NHÁNGHĨ,” which you can easily find on Google when searching for homestays in the area.

The road becomes broken due to ongoing construction, making it a significant challenge to navigate downhill on my bike. Dust covers the surface, and loose stones are scattered in places for asphalt work. Large construction vehicles are constantly moving on the already narrow road, so I drive with caution, as any mistake could be fatal. To make matters worse, the cold is unbearable for my hands, and my visor keeps fogging up.

I stopped after descending the Pass to change my dead GoPro battery and put on my leather gloves. Until then, I had only been using the handlebar gloves, but the cold had become unbearable and my fingers were going numb.

I continue climbing and stop to take a photo of my bike with the winding road and mountains in the background.

Around 9 am, I arrive in Bão Lac town and stop for breakfast at a roadside restaurant. With limited options, the owner recommends Bun Cå, which I enjoy. The hot meal provides great relief in the chilly weather, and I leave with a satisfied smile after paying 30,000 VND.

As I ride further, the scenery improves, and the mountains take on beautiful shapes. Rice terraces begin to emerge; though not vividly green, they still enhance the landscape. I’m now entering the famous ‘Ha Giang loop,’ a scenic route popular among motorcyclists. This area is dominated by rice terraces. Many foreigners are seen riding gearless Honda scooters or as passengers with their rented Vietnamese counterparts, often in groups. Tour guides assist them at key checkpoints along the way. Few, like me, ride independently, and it is rare to spot riders on larger motorcycles like Kawasaki and Triumphs.

98% of the vehicles I see on the road are mopeds, with local superbikes being rare. The presence of 4-wheelers is almost nonexistent, with pickups being the only common sight. Small cars are seldom seen, appearing only once or twice over a long period. So far, the only two small cars I’ve spotted are the KIA ‘Morning’ and Vinfast’s ‘FADIL.’

As I continue my ride, the clouds part and the sun shines, transforming the landscape. I’m now at a higher elevation, where the tall mountains make me feel small, and navigating the narrow roads feels risky. As always, I proceed with caution.

I’m riding to Vietnam’s northernmost point. It wasn’t on my wishlist until I discovered it while browsing Google yesterday, so I decided to make a visit. It’s a quick detour from my original route.

Riding in the sunshine is a whole new experience after driving through shivering cold. The winding roads take me to Lung Cu, the northernmost town in Vietnam bordering China, where I arrive around 1:30 PM. A large tower with a flag stands at the center, accessible by a road partway up and stairs from the ground.

The tower sits on a small hillock. I ride my bike to ground zero, but a local informs me that I can ride halfway up via a road. I reach the midpoint and park my bike, paying an entry fee of 40,000 VND. After climbing 50 steps, I finally level with the tower and enjoy the great 360° view as the wind rushes against my face. I notice the door to the tower is open, allowing access to the spiral stairs leading to the top. Ascending, I feel the thrill of reaching the summit, reminiscent of climbing Mt. Everest.

Above me, a large Vietnamese cloth flag flutters. The view is indescribable; from this height, everyone on the ground looks tiny, much like a view from a plane. After taking photos, I descend to the parking lot. While repositioning my bike for a photo with the flag, I accidentally drop it for the first time. Fortunately, nothing is damaged, but I worry since I have many days of riding ahead. The parking attendant helps lift the bike. Before leaving, I use the restroom, which costs 3000 VND, leading to some frustration about all the charges here. The parking attendant also asks for 5000 VND before I can depart.

I head towards the official plaque marking Vietnam’s northernmost point. Initially lost despite using Google Maps, a local boy guides me back on track. The road is under construction, with loose gravel and boulders making it difficult to keep the bike steady. A few meters ahead, I connect to a narrow cement road, just five feet wide, with a mountain on my right and a deep valley on my left. The view is breathtaking yet terrifying. In the distance, I see the mountains on the Chinese side, which are fenced off and monitored by watchtowers.

I reach the parking lot. The plaque can be reached after Climbing certain no. of stairs. The ground actually looks like a corner. I take a photo of myself with the plaque and vow to touch the southernmost point of Vietnam.

I quickly hop on my bike to rejoin the main loop, aiming to reach Ha Giang by evening. The scenery is stunning, with the sky shifting colors. I pause to admire the uniquely pointed limestone karsts. The time is nearly 3:45 PM.

I’m alternating between riding in the shadows and sunlight in the fall mountains. The light is fading quickly, and I doubt I’ll reach my destination of Ha Giang with still 140 km to go. I stop to capture my last view of the sunset before continuing through the Golden Hour. Around 5 PM, I arrive in Yen Minh city and look for accommodation. Just as I decide to stay the night, a boy on his moped approaches and asks if I need a place to stay. I confirm, and he offers to show me his homestay, inviting me to check it out and book if I like.

Lyon accompanies me as we head to a place that impresses right from the entrance. After a 2 km ride, we arrive at a homestay with a cool vibe and travel-themed construction. It features a pond with a bridge, a sheltered dining area, an open fire pit, and cozy private rooms and dorms. I immediately like the dorm beds and book a spot for 230,000 VND, including dinner. Currently, I’m the only guest in the dorm. After settling in and freshening up, dinner is called at 6:30 pm in the dining area. The fire pit is lit, and I’m joined by Mehdi, the second person in the dorm from Algeria.

Dinner features a variety of local dishes and homemade corn plum wine. We share laughter and conversation at the table, joined by the owner and fellow travelers from Algeria, Korea, Namibia, Germany, and the USA. After a delightful meal, we enjoy a second round around the bonfire before saying our goodbyes and heading to bed. It’s always nice to make new friends. In the dorm, Mehdi and I chat a bit more about our jobs and travels before we retire for the night.

Seeing the cloudy weather today, I postpone my departure time by a hour so that I could enjoy the Ha Giang loop as suggested to me by Mehdi.