Tour of Vietnam 2023 | Day 5 | Cát Bà – Thất Khê | 260 kms

I wake up around 5:15 am and freshen myself up in no time. Pack all the luggage and settle the hostel bill.

I’m ready by 7:10 am, sipping my coffee, when I realize the ferry I need leaves at 9 am. It’s too early for the ferry, so I consider other options to save time. However, I conclude that the route I took two days ago also involves a ferry crossing. After calculating the time and distance, I determine that this new ferry route is the most logical choice. The owner informs me that it will take about 45 minutes to reach the harbor, so I should arrive in plenty of time to catch the ferry.

I tell myself that I would regret missing this scenic route. I hop on my bike and head for the 9 am ferry. The morning air is crisp and cold, and the wet road is blanketed with mist. The lush green vegetation complements the well-paved roads, and traffic is nearly nonexistent as I maintain a steady speed. The surface alternates between asphalt and cement. By 8:20 am, I arrive at the port, where 2-3 bikes are ahead of me, but the ticket counter isn’t open yet. I ask a nearby shopkeeper, and he tells me it opens at 9 am.

I utilize the remaining time to munch on my ‘energy bars’ for the much needed energy for the day.

I have chosen the Ban Gioc waterfalls as my final destination, located about 350 km from Ha Long Bay, where the ferry will drop me off. I’m uncertain if I can cover that distance before dusk, especially since the ferry will add an hour to my travel time. While I’m optimistic, I’m also open to changing my plans. While adjusting my luggage, I accidentally drop the helmet with the GoPro attached, breaking the mount. I’m in shock; without it, I can’t continue.t be able to record the video which is at the Perfect shooting location and I don’t have a spare mount.

I quickly improvise as I open my toolkit bags, racing against the clock as the ferry, which left Ha Long at 7:30 am, could arrive any moment. Using fevi-quick and M-seal, I manage to join the two pieces of the mount, and just as I’m speeding up the drying process with M-seal, the ferry arrives and docks. The ticket counter opens, and I buy a ticket for myself and my bike for about 80,000 VND. The ferry seems nearly empty with only 3-4 bikes, one car, and a few foreign couples onboard. While others board, I repack my gear on the bike, thinking the ferry will take time to leave, but I am mistaken.

The ferry sounds its horn to signal departure. The port master alerts the driver that I’ve been left behind, urging me to hurry as I gather my belongings without forgetting anything. The bike is loaded onto the ferry, which departs immediately. I use the ferry ride to organize my luggage and repair the broken mount by rewiring the entire vlogging setup. The rest of the time is spent enjoying the chilly, windy views. Most passengers huddle behind the driver’s cabin for warmth. Soon, I spot the shores of Ha Long Bay, crowded with numerous cruises carrying holidaymakers. The sight is overwhelming and somewhat dull with so many boats congesting the bay.

I am the first to step onto the bay as the ferry docks. The destination on Google Maps is ‘Ban Gioc’ Waterfalls, approximately 355 km away. I turn the ignition on at 10:15 am and leave the shore. The roads are good from the start, allowing me to maintain a steady cruising speed. The weather is cold, with chilly winds blowing and strong gusts in open areas. Despite these elements, I continue on and soon see the mountains ahead.

The mountains dramatically transform the landscape, making me feel as though I’m truly driving in Vietnam. Entire mountain ranges are farmed commercially with Acacia trees for lumber, showcasing various tree types in different growth stages. I observe nurseries selling plants, barren mountains recently harvested, and small saplings swaying in the wind alongside medium and large trees ready for cutting. Farmlands have just been harvested for paddy crops like rice, corn, and sugarcane. Rice husks are neatly piled in conical shapes, while corn kernels are dried and left in front of homes to sunbathe.

Numerous lumber mills line the route. I hope the weather improves, but it worsens as I continue. With my hands completely numb, I stop at a small roadside stall for hot coffee. Finishing it provides some relief, allowing me to push on. Around noon, I take a lunch break, hoping to replenish my energy and generate warmth in my body. At this point, I really miss my Oxford handlebar grip heaters!

I see a large roadside hotel ahead and stop immediately. The drivers of a tourist van are having lunch inside. A lady greets me, but I struggle to ask about the menu. Google reveals the word ‘Beef’ in it, so I ask her for a dish without beef. She recommends a dish, which I understand as ‘Sour Fish Soup with Fried Chicken and Rice.’ I confirm with her, and it costs me 100,000 VND.

The lunch exceeds my expectations, and I savor every bite until it’s gone. The cold outside prompts me to eat quickly to enjoy the hot food. After paying the bill, I hit the road again. With two long breaks already taken, reaching my destination seems unlikely, as Google Maps shows nearly 250 km remaining. An expressway runs parallel to our highway for a short distance, but motorcyclists are not allowed on it. I pass through several cities, but the traffic is much lighter than in India, where people ride systematically and obey traffic rules, which is a relief for me. I refuel near Dong Dang, close to the China border. At the nearest point according to Google Maps, I stop to take a picture of my bike against the backdrop of the mountains on the Chinese side.

I ride non-stop until dusk, arriving at a city called That Khe. My Google Maps reveals a highly-rated hotel with reviews from foreign travelers who passed through on their way to the ‘Ban Gioc’ waterfalls.

I swiftly arrive at the hotel, where I am warmly welcomed. The owner’s son speaks English and assists me in choosing a room. I secure a discounted rate of 150,000 VND for a single room with an attached bathroom, opting out of the heated air conditioning that would have added 50,000 VND. Wanting to challenge myself, I freshen up and take a leisurely stroll around the city.

Ninety percent of the shops close by 8 PM, leaving only a few open. I return to the Hai Van Hotel and sit at a coffee shop across from it to write in my diary. After finishing, I head to my room to sleep, as I plan to leave early tomorrow at dawn.