Tour of Vietnam 2023 | Day 20 | Ho Chi Minh – Ca Mau | 515 kms

I wake up around 5 to 5:30 am, take a quick shower, and pack lightly with just a backpack and a change of clothes for my night in Ca Mau.

After reaching the southernmost point, I will return to Ca Mau city for the night, as Nihal has informed me that it has the best crabs not to be missed.

Crabs are one of my favorites, and I’m excited to taste the sea crabs. While I wait for Nihal to get ready for work, we grab coffee. At the coffee shop, he has an upset stomach, so we rush back home. He decides to work from home today, and I say goodbye and continue my journey. It’s after 7:30 am when I hit the main road, surrounded by a swarm of buzzing two-wheelers. Navigating is challenging due to the slow speed and frequent stoplights, which persist for about 30 kilometers until 9 am. I realize I’m still not clear of the city limits.

The dedicated two-wheeler lanes significantly slow down traffic, making overtaking risky due to the chance of colliding with nearby vehicles. After 9 am, the traffic eases, and the dedicated lane transforms into a regular state highway. I take a short break for breakfast, enjoying a Bahn Mi and two cans of energy drink. Last night’s spicy meal has affected my stomach, so I opt for a mostly liquid diet. Although clouds loom overhead, they don’t appear threatening.

They offer temporary shade once the heat intensifies. The roads switch between single and dual carriageways. I’ve learned that the Mekong Delta is densely populated due to its fertile land, a gift from the Mekong River. Even on dual carriageways, traffic is heavy with activities everywhere as everyone rushes about, often carrying items on their motorcycles. The sides of the road are lined with houses, leaving little open land. The landscape is quite dull, as the highway mostly runs through the city. I cross a massive bridge over the Mekong River, both the river and the bridge impressive in their own right. The Mekong has a wide bank, reminiscent of the Brahmaputra.

This river originates in the Himalayas, flowing through Tibet, China, Myanmar, Cambodia, Thailand, and finally entering Vietnam before reaching the sea. The highway ends ahead at the Expressway.

I can’t proceed, but Google says you need to go. I’m unsure why Google showed me that route when I selected the ‘Motorcycle’ option, as 2-wheelers aren’t allowed on expressways. The alternative route is 70 minutes slower, which I can’t afford if I want to meet my goals. I waited there and even entered the expressway partially, but the guard told me to stop.

I show him my route, and he recommends an alternative that connects to the main expressway a few kilometers ahead. It seems the expressway isn’t very long, as it merges with the main highway.

I have to take a detour through narrow, mostly under-construction village roads parallel to the highway, featuring steep inclines and declines. My stomach is unsettled, so I stop at a petrol station to relieve myself, which leaves me feeling refreshed. The road is uneven as I pass through a light canopy of trees, with vendors selling fresh fruits waving at me. After about 17 km, I hope to connect to the main highway, but I can’t enter it yet. I continue for another 10 km before finally rejoining the highway.

The roads are good for a while, but then they narrow and become corrugated. Although there are no potholes, the surface vibrations make my handlebar shake, giving me shocks with every bump. The uneven road forces me to drive cautiously, and increased traffic makes overtaking difficult. The scenery has opened up to fields, some flooded and others cultivated with paddies.

I reach Ca Mau after completing my 300 km for the day. This large city, known for its oil refineries, still leaves me with 100 km to the tip. After a quick rest and hydration, the real challenge begins. Riding through Ca Mau, I notice many shops advertising crab delicacies, which excites me for my return later to indulge in them. However, my enthusiasm fades as the road conditions deteriorate. The bike jolts violently, making me anxious about potential damage, reminiscent of riding on poorly maintained Indian roads. After enjoying good roads for so long, I didn’t expect to finish my trip on such pothole-ridden paths that could severely harm the bike. The road widens and the traffic thins; I hardly see any tourist buses, vans, or cars on this stretch. The last 100 km prove to be the toughest, with me checking the remaining distance on my screen every few minutes.

I ride through a dense mangrove forest, where towering trees overshadow the road and me. Sparse fishing hamlets and a few empty seafood restaurants line the path. I continue, speeding up whenever I find a nice stretch of road.

I arrived at around 5 pm and noticed 1-2 buses in the parking lot. The dark grey clouds loomed ominously, signaling an impending downpour. It had started to drizzle in the last few kilometers. After parking my bike and paying the 30,000 VND entry fee, I quickly walked to the monument. A small group was there taking pictures of a tall brown pillar marked ‘KM2436,’ flanked by two stone structures resembling boats with carvings. I checked Google Maps for other nearby attractions and found a boat-shaped monument with the coordinates of the Southernmost tip. By now, the rain was pouring heavily as I strolled along the wharf towards the monument, feeling like I was walking into Nirvana. The serene silence, the sound of the trees, the rain around me, and the waves crashing nearby, with the sun breaking through the clouds like a beaten egg, created a magical atmosphere.

It’s the perfect long walk to de-stress and find calm. I stroll about 700-800 meters, and just as I reach the monument, the rain stops. The monument, a large boat-shaped structure in white and blue, features latitude and longitude markings. At this moment, I witness the most beautiful sunset for the first time, partially obscured by clouds. I capture a photo of the sun’s reflection on the calm ocean. It’s a moment beyond words.

It’s just you and nature. I take the same route back to my bike, and by the time I arrive, the sun has set. I was fortunate to witness such a simple yet magnificent event. I mount my bike, my jacket and pants wet, and begin the 110 km journey back to Ca Mau. I know it will be long and tiring, so I decide to ride slowly to conserve my energy. I travel 30 km before darkness falls completely.

I ride happily at 40 km/h toward Ca Mau. At one point, Google suggests a less damaged route. The road is barely wide enough for larger cars. It’s pitch black around me, filled with the sounds of night creatures. This route even takes me on a ferry across a river for a 6000 VND ticket. Back on the road, I begin to see houses illuminated by lights. Most roads are empty, with people mainly congregating at restaurants, some enjoying karaoke outside. This scenery distracts me from the monotony of driving.

I arrived in Ca Mau city around 9:15 pm after mistakenly taking the wrong route. Earlier in the evening, I had entered ‘Ca Mau’ into the map, which led me to a different location. Realizing my error, I corrected the map and navigated through narrow streets for the last 10 km, fortunate that the roads were clear. Before entering the city, I refueled and began searching for a hotel. Booking.com helped me find a suitable option, but all homestays were fully booked. The hotel price was higher than expected, so I decided to check in person. I discovered that the advertised bed was unavailable, and I had to book a slightly larger room for 220,000 VND, which was 40,000 VND more. I took a room on the second floor since it was late. Before moving my luggage, I grabbed a quick dinner of fried rice and chicken at a nearby roadside stall. The food was excellent, served with hot chicken stock soup. I had considered a nearby place that offered crabs, but it was closing down, leaving me no choice but to eat at the hotel entrance. After moving my luggage upstairs, I attempted to write in my diary, but my eyes grew heavy, and I soon dozed off, planning to wake up early to ride back to Ho Chi Minh.

Tomorrow is my last day of exploration before my rest day and preparing to return to India.