Tour of Vietnam 2023 | Day 17 | Hoi Ann – Hoi Ann | 18 kms

I woke up around 5 am, the latest I had during the trip, and without an alarm. I left the hostel in my rain gear since it had been raining all morning and showed no signs of stopping. I would have to explore regardless.

I visit the Thanh Ho pottery village, which I noted during my tour preparation. It’s just 2 km from my hostel, and I reach it quickly on my bike. The entrance fee is 35,000 VND, and bike parking costs 5,000 VND. Pottery has been the village’s trade for centuries.

I have a map of the village showing points of interest and locations where I can try pottery. I explore on foot in the drizzling rain, weaving through the narrow lanes and observing the locals and their pottery for sale. I enter a household and attempt to make a small jar. It’s always interesting to try something new. They keep my creation, and after washing my hands, I continue on my way.

I explore local households and admire their creations. While many items are tempting to buy, their delicate nature and my mode of travel prevent me from doing so. The entry ticket also includes a free souvenir, which can be collected from one of the households.

I collect a palm-sized turtle souvenir that also serves as a whistle. The man, presumably the father, molds these tiny animal figures and manually drills holes for the whistles. I sit nearby, captivated by his focused work. It’s peaceful to watch him. I try making holes in one and succeed at the whistle noise test! The household also has a small café for visitors, so I order a cold coffee and continue watching him work. After finishing my coffee, I thank him for the opportunity to observe, then leave to explore the remaining houses.

Outside one house, I spot a terracotta plaque embossed with a dragon that captivates me instantly. It’s a unique piece, like a diamond, and I decide it’s the perfect souvenir. I purchase it for 200,000 VND, half its original price, and they carefully wrap it in bubble wrap before handing it to me.

In another household, I can’t resist the beautiful terracotta wind chimes. I buy two—one medium and one small—and have them packed carefully. Additionally, I purchase three ‘lucky cats’ and some equally enticing fridge magnets. The ‘lucky cat’ is a doll-like figure with its left hand in a continuous wave, commonly found throughout Vietnam in homes, cafes, and shops.

They say it’s for good luck, so I buy it. After the village tour, I spend time in the pottery museum, which showcases ancient artifacts from the town and other pottery villages in Vietnam. The exhibits detail the connections between each city, along with their distinct styles, decorations, and techniques. Each display is accompanied by brief explanations. I lose track of time in the museum and realize it’s almost late afternoon when I finally leave the pottery village. I return to my hostel to drop off my purchases before heading to the location for the ‘Coconut Boat ride,’ which is about 9 kilometers away. Thao, the hostel receptionist, helps arrange the ride with a local contact and sends me the meeting point via Google Maps. I navigate through a growing crowd of tourists on the road as I make my way to the location on the eve of December 31st.

Upon arrival, I notice several ‘agents’ operating the ‘Coconut village’ boat ride. I’m with one of them. The boat ride resembles the night boat ride in Hoi An, but here the boats are round, resembling half a coconut shell, and are made of bamboo. It takes you through plantations filled with trees that look like coconut trees, but produce entirely different fruits and lack coconut tree stumps. These trees thrive in a marshy swamp area, creating a rich mangrove ecosystem. This boat ride offers a unique experience.

A lady paddles my boat using a unique technique for rowing a circular vessel, which is challenging. The paddle moves in an ‘s’ shaped curve. The ride lasts 20 minutes, and many tourist-filled boats can be seen around.

The paddler shouts a local war cry as we head forward. I join an activity (100,000 VND) where I switch to another boat, and its paddler spins us like a top. I cling on for dear life, gripping the boat tightly, knowing that if I let go, I’ll be thrown into the water.

Others in their boats are watching the dramatic event unfold. I understand now why few people choose to participate in such activities. I also notice tourists engaging in a ‘throwing fishing net’ activity from their boats, which looks fascinating. Many are taking photos. The sun finally breaks through the clouds, casting shimmering light on the water. It’s a beautiful scene, and I capture some great photos thanks to the sunlight! Soon, I return to shore and head back to the hostel after paying 150,000 VND for the boat ride.

I freshen up at the hostel and head directly to the old part of Hoi An, knowing I won’t return until after midnight for the New Year celebrations. In the old town, I buy a ticket for 125,000 VND to explore any five of the approximately 40-50 points of interest. Additional tickets are required for more sites, which seems illogical to me, so I let it go. This time, I hire a local guide for 120,000 VND to show me five places, as I believe understanding the town’s history from someone knowledgeable is essential. Simply skimming through the points of interest won’t provide a meaningful experience. Hoi An has played a significant role in Vietnam’s history.

The guide arrives in 5-10 minutes, and I let him choose five places to visit. We start with two communal halls, one Vietnamese and one Cantonese. Next, we visit an old house run by its 9th generation. The fourth stop is the Japan Bridge, built when trade flourished between the two countries via waterways. Unfortunately, the bridge is under restoration, so I can only rely on photos and the guide’s descriptions. It was entirely wooden and arched. Lastly, we watch a local theatre performance that the guide said was a must-see, although we ran out of time after the play ended.

The next show was at 10:15 am the following day, and the guide asked me to stay. Since I was leaving the city tomorrow, I deliberated and ultimately agreed. Thus, our tour of the old town concluded. I thanked him for the insightful historical information and the great tour.

After that, I explored the street markets in search of a lantern. After browsing many shops and negotiating prices, I finally chose a medium-sized white lantern shaped like a hot air balloon. I wandered the night market but found nothing else of interest. I quickly returned to the hostel to store the large lantern. Later, I had dinner at a restaurant by the Hoi An waterway, enjoying a calm and serene atmosphere while watching people and boats pass by. The meal cost around 179,000 VND. I was tempted by ‘Toto cafe’, which served the best iced coconut coffee I’ve ever had. With my stomach full, I had no room left. As midnight approached, I walked to the bustling pub area filled with music and growing crowds.

I considered staying and quickly became immersed in dancing to the DJ’s beats. It was a beautiful moment—celebrating New Year’s in a foreign country among strangers from all over the world. As the fireworks erupted at midnight, we danced and partied until 2 AM!

I decided to stop after then and planned to return back to my hostel for a good sleep. My legs were shaking from the walking of the day and the dancing of the night. The small distance to hostel seemed a long walk and once I reached the hostel, I just crashed onto my bed in whatever condition I was. Didn’t even think of changing my clothes. At the far distance, I could still hear the faint din of the music.