Tour of Vietnam 2023 | Day 12 | Ninh Binh – Ninh Binh | 38 kms

I woke up a bit late, knowing it was a rest day for both the motorcycle and me. My phone battery was nearly dead from last night’s data transfer, so I put it on charge and got ready for the day. While waiting for it to charge, I used the time to update my diary. By the time my phone was fully charged, my diary was up to date.

My first destination was Mua Cave, about 6 km away. The entry ticket cost 100,000 VND, and bike parking was 15,000 VND. I began by climbing a small mountain topped with a shrine. The trek was considerable, with long steps and a significant elevation change. I had to be careful as many of the stone steps were rounded from years of use. I encountered many other Indian visitors on my way. The sun was shining brightly, and I started to sweat in my winter jacket as I ascended. There was a decent crowd making the trek. After 2-3 stops, I reached the top, where a shrine and a dragon made of Portland cement perched on the limestone karst. People gathered around the dragon for photos.

The view from the top is impressive, offering a distant perspective of the city. The karst formations are sharp and pointed, requiring caution while navigating around the dragon. Small pillars anchored in cement and linked by chains are installed for safety, as a fall could be fatal. After a short while, I descend the mountain and begin climbing the steps of the adjacent peak, which also features a monument. However, most visitors go there just for photos. The path is steep, and the stone steps are narrow.

A long line of tourists waits to take photos. After about 10 minutes, I finally get my picture taken and quickly move on. I explore the Mua cave, which doesn’t impress me; it’s just a semi-circular cave opening into the jungle. I then retrace my steps to visit the nearby lotus field, which is vast and filled with lotus plants, but unfortunately, there are no visible flowers—likely out of season or already harvested.

I take some photos before heading to my next destination. I’m hungry and thirsty from the short trek, and since it’s past breakfast time, I stop for Banh Mi. I finish with a spicy snack and a Red Bull. Next, I arrive at the Bich Dong pagoda. After parking my bike, the attendant asks for 40,000 VND. I clarify whether this includes parking and entry fees, but he mumbles something in Vietnamese and doesn’t listen. I pay him, and he hands me a receipt without the amount. The entrance features a stone arched bridge, which makes for a nice photo opportunity. I then continue on my way.

At the base is a temple similar in architecture to those I visited in Hanoi and other cities, dedicated to Buddhism. Inside, I find gods at the center and on both sides. Exiting, I notice stone steps beside the temple leading to the mountaintop. After climbing, I reach another temple situated at a cave’s entrance. Inside, it feels vast, featuring man-made steps that ascend to a third temple. The surrounding flora is soothing, with some familiar from my garden and others completely new to me. After examining the architecture and translating the text with Google Translate, I head down to the parking lot.

There’s another trail that circles the walled compound of the ‘Bich Pagoda’ and leads into the nearby mountain. I speak with a couple returning from the trail, and they strongly encourage me to try it. They share positive feedback, describing a straightforward walk followed by a brief two-minute climb over limestone slabs. Afterward, we descend to a flat plain with a pond and a house at a corner.

An old lady is working inside as we pass through. The house is surrounded by water, accessible via small bridges, and I spot fish in the pond. The entire area is framed by lush green mountains and Colocasia leaves. I take a stroll, soaking in the natural beauty before returning to the house, where I meet Amelie, her father, and sister, who have also come to explore. She asks if the big bike ‘Himalayan’ in the parking lot is mine, and I confirm. This sparks a nearly half-hour conversation about motorcycles, revealing that their family shares a passion for riding. Amelie rides a BMW 1150R while her dad rides a BMW 1250GS.

I’m amazed to learn that she’s just 18 and has already visited 23 countries! We discuss overseas rides and dream roads. She hopes to ride in India and tackle the world’s highest motorable road, while I express my interest in riding in Germany, which they’re happy to support. After returning to the parking lot, I say goodbye to her family and wish them a safe journey before moving on.

I then visit the Buffalo Cave, a charming spot where a bamboo walkway spans a pond. A waterfall greets you at the entrance. Inside, I navigate over rocks and bend down in places to continue. It’s a dead-end cave, and I take some photos before heading back. Afterwards, I explore the surrounding mountains, taking the interior roads beside the expansive ponds.

The sun is playing hide and seek, and whenever it breaks through the clouds, I seize the moment to photograph the landscape with my bike. I then head to ‘Thung Nam Ecotourism’ park, which I discovered on Google. The park features well-rated caves and charges an entrance fee of 150,000 VND, along with a 10,000 VND parking fee for the bike.

I suggested that the fee should include this, but I received no response. The ticket counter provided a leaflet showcasing various sites in the biodiversity park. I first visited the Buddha cave, accessed by boat. We were given lights due to the cave’s darkness. Inside, a natural formation resembling a sitting Buddha appeared among the stalactites and stalagmites. After reaching the open end of the cave, we returned the same way.

Next is the Mermaid Cave, which we access via a flight of steps. Once inside, we must bend down to navigate the low height, making it quite a backbreaker. However, it’s a relief to finally stand upright and see the mermaid statue carved from the stalactites and stalagmites, along with various stalactite formations. Afterward, we have a longer walk to reach the bird sanctuary by boat. We wait about 20 minutes until the boat fills up, then set off to observe storks and egrets.

The boat ride is silent, as are the surroundings, except for the sounds of countless birds nesting in the trees. We glide slowly around their nesting area, observing closely. Signs urging silence are posted everywhere. We pause briefly to watch the birds play; it’s a beautiful sight. A large flock flies in formation, gracefully descending.

As dusk approaches and the temperature drops, I head back to the parking lot with little left to see. I stop to buy five fridge magnets of Ninh Binh and some pocket diaries featuring beautiful Vietnamese artwork. I also get a Vietnamese drip coffee maker for myself.

At the hostel, I prepare to explore the local market as recommended. However, when I arrive, I only find ordinary shops instead of a ‘shopping street’. Disheartened, I head back to yesterday’s spot. There, I discover a place to unwind after a long day, order my meal, and happily write in my diary while enjoying the beautiful night views. Around 10:30 PM, I return to the hostel for a good night’s sleep, setting an alarm for 5 AM before drifting off.