Tour of Vietnam 2023 | Day 11 | Mộc Châu – Ninh Binh | 194 kms

I’m feeling the fatigue from yesterday’s long ride. I went to bed around midnight and set an early alarm, but I didn’t wake until 7 AM. By the time I got ready, loaded my luggage, and had my coffee, it was 8 AM. The lady owner noticed my bike was dirty and kindly offered a water pipe for cleaning. After the wash, the bike looks brand new. With bright, sunny weather perfect for riding, I’m not in a rush for the 182 km journey to Nimb Binh.

The roads are excellent, and I cruise at 40-50 kmph, carefully observing my surroundings. My eyes are constantly scanning for new sights, while my brain processes all the information. The elevation gradually descends to sea level as I leave the mountains behind. Despite the sunny weather, I still feel cold. After about 70 km, I stop for coffee at a cafe overlooking the valley. The location is perfect, and I’m the only customer. I order coffee and sit on the open balcony to write in my diary and soak up some warmth from the sun. My hands are stiff as I struggle to write, but gradually my speed increases. The coffee is good, and I spend about an hour catching up on my diary. I leave around 11:30 am.

I climb and descend the mountain passes 2-3 times before reaching the plains, where the scenery transforms into lush green cornfields. On an open highway lined with sugarcane farms, I see women on either side selling chopped, cleaned sugarcane. I stop to buy a bag for 10,000 VND, containing 20-25 pieces to chew on. The juice is as sweet as what I enjoy in my hometown. After finishing the bag, I continue my journey. The remaining kilometers decrease quickly as I switch from a national highway to a state highway. The road narrows and shows signs of wear, passing through many villages and towns, so I drive cautiously.

I arrive in Ninh Binh around 2:30 pm and check into ‘Central Backpacker’s Hostel’ through Booking.com, getting a great deal for a bed in a mixed dorm of six. I ask the hostel owner about activities for the rest of the day, and he recommends a three-hour boat ride at ‘Tranh An.’ He shows me a pamphlet with a map of suggested activities. I decide a sunset boat ride would be ideal for enjoying the scenery, so I add it to my to-do list.

I quickly unload my luggage in my room and get ready. It’s just 6 km away, and I arrive in no time. Parking costs 15,000 VND, and the boat ride is about 250,000 VND. I buy my ticket and head to the wharf, where I’m offered three route options. I choose the scenic third route, recommended by locals. Four people are needed for a boat, so I wait for three others. A Mexican couple joins me, and we set off with just three. The boat glides slowly, offering great views as the sun dips behind the mountains. The lighting is perfect for photos. We first visit a temple, then reboard after some time.

Our boat number is 1440, and we need to remember this because of the many boats docked at the temple wharf. The temple’s wooden architecture is impressive, and it feels peaceful inside. After 15 minutes, we reboard the boat and enter a long cave where we sometimes have to duck to avoid hitting our heads on the unusual stalactites. It’s a good physical workout. We then visit our second temple, and the lady insists that we do not exceed our 10-minute limit.

The temple is located a little inside and covered by garden trees all around. Some of the trees are bearing fruits completely unknown to me.

We arrive a few minutes late to find the boat lady searching for us; she even left her boat to look for us! We enter the second cave, similar to the first, where we again duck to navigate. Throughout, we assist the lady with paddling as we glide through the limestone karst landscape, surrounded by complete silence and occasional lotus plants. After the second cave, we return to the wharf, stopping briefly where people pose for photos on the boat near a lone stone structure. The couple decides to have a photo session, while I get dropped off at the third temple across the way.

I take advantage of the time while waiting for the boat to return to visit the temple. After a while, I reunite with the group, and from there, it’s nonstop paddling to the wharf. We even pass several boats that were initially ahead of us. Three hours of paddling is quite taxing on the body.

We disembark into the dark, and the lanterns glowing around us look stunning at night. I head to my hostel to freshen up and then venture out to explore nearby, a place recommended by the hostel owner. It features a central pond surrounded by street food vendors. Two illuminated towers in the pond showcase intricate sculptures depicting Vietnam’s history and seem dedicated to a notable figure, with idols housed inside. I skip the lantern boat ride nearby and instead climb a nearby karst where a small temple sits; the view from the top is impressive. I make several trips around the food stall area, struggling to decide on a dinner choice.

I choose a dish I’ve never tried before: stir-fried noodles with seafood and a side of grilled oysters, fulfilling my desire to try something new. As I head back to the hostel, a cute Vietnamese girl is fascinated by my beard and plays with it while her mother films us. I wish them good night and start my 1 km walk back.

Back at the hostel, there’s nothing more to do and I crash onto bed as yet another tiring day comes to an end.