Tour of Vietnam 2023 | Day 10 | SaPa – Mộc Châu | 354 kms

I wake up at 5:30 am and begin packing quietly so as not to disturb anyone still asleep. I move my luggage outside to pack more freely. After freshening up, I head down to load the bike. By 6:30 am, everything is ready, and I leave after having my coffee.

The weather is rough with light drizzle and breaking daylight. It’s very cold as I begin my ride. The road is wet from last night’s rain, and construction has left some areas muddy and slushy. Everything is a mess, and the mist fogs my visor, forcing me to ride with it open for visibility.

The cold has seeped into my hands, and my forehead aches painfully from the open visor. I aim to descend the mountain quickly. Overtaking the large trucks is challenging. After about 25 km, I reach the mountain base and notice the weather improving. The sun is breaking through the clouds, trying to shine over the mountain I just descended. Soon, it’s completely sunny, and I happily cruise along.

My excitement fades as the fog returns, lingering and bringing back the cold. I pass beautiful mountains adorned with tea plantations, enjoying the scenery. Road construction forces me to stop briefly at various points until the road clears. Numerous detours and dirt kicked up by passing vehicles create trouble; both I and my bike become coated in dust, which continues for a long time.

The road conditions improve as I leave the highway to Hanoi and begin climbing again, passing through a dam. The winding mountain roads hug the backwaters, prompting me to stop for a photo. After that, I navigate a series of ascents and descents.

The road is less traveled by vehicles, and its condition is good enough to enjoy the ride. This area is home to diverse ethnic communities, and I’m glad I chose this route. The women here have a unique sense of fashion, particularly their distinctive hairstyles, where their hair is styled in a ball on top of their heads, rather than at the back. It looks unusual, especially since helmets fit over these hairstyles rather than directly on their heads.

It looks quite amusing, with the houses built in various styles, all made of wood with raised structures. Logs serve as pillars supporting the houses, each accessible by stairs leading to the door. The roofs are tiled with clay bricks. Soon, I cross the massive Da River, which resembles a sea, traveling over a long bridge to reach the other side.

I arrive in a town I’ve specifically marked for this trip. There’s a peculiar activity I need to do here: driving through a cave in the mountains. I reach the entrance quickly, and the cave stretches about 1.5 kilometers with many twists and turns. It’s completely dark, lit only by my headlight, which makes it feel eerie being the only one inside. The silence is only broken by the sound of my bike echoing in the cave. After completing that, I hit the main road heading south, where I can finally cruise. I increase my speed, aiming to get as close to Ninh Binh as possible. When I exited the cave, Google mapped Ninh Binh at 345 kilometers, and it was 2:45 PM.

The journey continues under cloudy skies. After crossing Son La, I pass a vast coffee plantation, where coffee beans are spread out to dry on the ground. I take a moment to inspect the beans and snap some photos before continuing on my way.

I push on until dusk and arrive in Moc Chau, where the town is aglow with Christmas spirit. Using Booking.com, I find a highly-rated homestay for 100,000 VND. The friendly owner assists me with everything as I check in. The spacious two-story house features a dorm-style ground floor with 10 beds, and I’m the only guest tonight. After freshening up, I explore the town, jot down my thoughts at a coffee shop, and grab a bite to eat before returning to the homestay. Although it’s a bit chilly, the bedding provided keeps me cozy. I set my alarm for 6 am and fall asleep around 11:45 pm.