Prologue

Mysore’s Magnificent Dasara is a grand celebration of victory over evil. The festival begins with the royal procession, which is a sight to behold. The procession consists of a decorated elephant carrying the royal idol, followed by beautifully decorated floats, horse-drawn carriages, and artists dressed in traditional attire. The procession starts from the Mysore Palace and culminates at the Bannimantap grounds, where the torchlight parade takes place.

Apart from the procession, Mysore’s Magnificent Dasara is also famous for its illumination. The entire city is lit up with lights of different colors and shapes, making it a visual treat for the eyes. The Mysore Palace, which is the main attraction of the city, is illuminated with thousands of bulbs, creating a spectacular sight. Every evening, there are cultural programs organized at the palace, where artists from different parts of the country showcase their talent.

And so, we decided to experience this first hand ourselves this time. CSK Sir had pitched the idea about the tour as I returned from my Mangi Tungi trek in 1st week of September. Dasara was exactly a month ahead. When it comes to long-distance traveling, I and CSK Sir are mostly together riding our beloved bikes but, this time CSK Sir planned to take his car as his wife Archana too, was going to come. It was an odd combination of a Car and a Bike! This was going to be my first long-distance Journey of the year!

Leaves were applied in the office and subsequently, we worked our respective modes of transportation ensuring that it was fit for the journey. This time the tour was planned by CSK Sir himself as his boss was going to be our host in Mysore.

Will all the usual things packed up along with my Camera setup, it was time to hit the road for a long. It was still the end of the rainy season and we were not going to take our chances, especially for me since I was the one exposed to the elements!

Day 1: Pune to Kumta: 552 kms

I received the tour stickers just in time. I usually make it a habit to make stickers for a trip such as these so that I can paste them on the bike and also distribute it to fellow people whom I meet along the way. Today we are riding towards Kumta which is roughly 550 km. We have already chalked out the route ourselves.

With the Sun rising over Pune city, I kick start my bike and head toward the first toll en route on the NH8 highway where we plan to meet. CSK Sir and his wife greet me with a smile as I reach there 20 mins later. We say hello to each other as we push further. A combination of Car and Bike stated for long haul seems too odd! We decide to drive/ride at a leisurely pace with me trailing behind the car.

The weather is perfect and the sky is marred with localized clouds. Nothing to fear about imminent rain. We push ON almost nonstop, utilizing the morning coolness till we force ourselves to stop at the Karad Toll plaza for a quick cup of tea. A lip-smacking breakfast of Misal-Pav follows just imminently after a few km ahead.

We pass Kolhapur after some time having traveled 220 km till now. The clouds start to gather momentum and it seems that rain can lash us anytime. It starts to drizzle which I ignore saying to myself that it would soon be done. But, I am mistaken for the Rain Gods which show no mercy on me, and by the time I am aware of the situation, I am completely drenched and soaked to the bone. I curse myself for not stopping and putting on the rain gear.

The wind chill affects my body as I cruise at 80kmph hoping that the forced air would dry out my gear. However, little is improved as we arrive at Belgaum city after riding 80 km from where the rain drenched us. CSK sir recommends a famous hotel where we feast on our lunch. The place is jam-packed with people of all ages having their afternoon meals. We order a variety of special dishes and finish it off with a good filter coffee. The hot food helps to regulate the body temperature which by now has dropped down too much due to damp riding gear.

We leave around 1:30 pm and re-enter the highway. The clouds are still hovering above us. The sky has got the typical grey shade. I fear another spell of rain. My gear has still not completely dried up.

We head towards Kittur, a town located near the highway. We are supposed to take a right from Kittur and pass through a single-carriageway road toward Kumta. The time is 2: 30pm and we hope to reach our destination before it gets dark.

Now, Initially, we planned to stay in the town of Gokarna, which is a small town located on the western coast of India, in the state of Karnataka. The town is known for its beautiful beaches, ancient temples, and laid-back atmosphere. It has become a popular tourist destination in recent years, attracting travelers from all over the world. People travel during Dasara season in Karnataka and we find difficulties in booking a hotel in Gokarna as almost all hotels/ resorts are full. Thereby, we have to move our base to Kumta which an only a fraction of a km south of Gokarna. We also manage to find a good resort there and have booked there for 2 nights.

We expect heavily congested traffic, the road being a single-carriageway but only 2 of us are seen using the road. Lush green covers us on both sides and the cool atmosphere cheers me up. The road condition is really good and I enjoy it as I put km behind me. The bike’s running well and it’s getting a good cold blast of air on the engine. We are supposed to ride through the “Yellapur Nature Reserve” on our way toward Kumta.

Just short of Yellapur town, we stop at a roadside shack located inside the Jungle for a quick cup of tea and to stretch ourselves. The road inside the jungle has deteriorated and is filled with larger crater-sized holes, large enough for a small baby to swim into it.

The time is around 4:30 pm and we leave the tea shop for our final 100 km drive towards the resort. We get a mix of good and bad roads and as we approach the coastal area the traffic increases, mostly cars. I am the lone person on the bike! A steady and non-stop drive leads us to the town of Kumta after we descend from the hilly areas toward the coast. We can feel the shift in the air properties, the air is somewhat humid now. Dusk falls by the time we reach the town of Kumta and from there we rely on Google Maps to deposit us into our resort.

We reach around 7 pm after passing through many narrow lanes lined by palm trees. They are the only trees that I can make out in the dark. Soon, we reach the entrance. The big doors are already open and we drive for nearly half a km before we get the feeling that indeed there is a resort located here. The ground is all sandy and wet, courtesy of rain. A boy approaches us and tells us to park our vehicles in the parking lot before being told to head toward the reception. We fill in the necessary details and get escorted to our room which seems too lavish for a traveler like me. The room is too large and supported by a balcony. Perfect for a couple!

After my quick shower, we meet at the diner area inside which the resort reception is located. Dinner consists of Soup as a starter and a main course of Roti, Subji, Daal, and rice. The food is tasty and hot. The cook is from West Bengal and we exchange a few dialogues between us before we head to our respective rooms for a good night’s sleep which is mandated. The complete day of riding and my getting wet en route has worn me out a little bit.

We decide to meet at breakfast the following morning around 7 am. Tomorrow, we plan to explore all the places nearby.

Day 2: Kumta – Jog Falls – Yana Rocks – Kumta: 250 kms

I wake up to the sound of the waves crashing onto the beach. The time is around 6 am and dawn is just breaking the cover. I phone CSK sir as I walk out of my room and head towards the beach. The beach is so close by the time the phone call ends, the waves greet me. Complete silence all around and I soak in the morning fresh air hitting me on the face. Birds chirp and a light haze floats on the beach. CSK Sir joins me a few moments later as we take a stroll on the beach.

We walk barefoot for around half a km before turning around. Back to our rooms for freshening up and prepare for the long day ahead. I ready myself quickly and wait for CSK sir and his wife at the restaurant. Before CSK Sir joins, I do a quick walkthrough of the resort which is surrounded by trees. It feels as though a building is forcefully picked up and placed inside a jungle. The trees seem fresh and so does my mood. I am excited about the things planned for today.

CSK Sir joins me at the breakfast table but we decide to have tea instead and carry on ourselves. Breakfast is planned on the way so that we don’t waste time at the resort’s restaurant itself. We drive for like 4 km and find a place for breakfast. It’s a small one-room kind of roadside hotel with a kitchen at the backside. There are customers sitting at the table as we enter and occupy the last bench near the kitchen. We order Idli and Wada and finish it off with filter coffee.

Our energy levels are full as we move ahead toward Jog falls, our 1st destination. We travel on the national highway at first which skims along the coast till it reached the southern tip of India. The roads are good and well-paved. We keep up our speed before we enter inland from Honnavar taking the single-carriageway road.

“Jog Falls, also known as Gerosoppa Falls, is a spectacular waterfall located in the Shimoga district of Karnataka, India. With a height of 253 meters, it is one of the highest waterfalls in India and is formed by the Sharavathi River dropping sharply over a rocky bed.

The falls are surrounded by lush green forests and rocky hills, making them a popular tourist attraction. The best time to visit Jog Falls is during the monsoon season from June to September when the falls are at their fullest and most impressive”.

On our way, we stop at a place where we see a huge gathering of people. We take a closer look only to observe a long and huge metal hanging bridge over the river. There are people on the bridge taking a stroll while some are clicking pictures on it. It seems that the bridge is meant for people to be able to cross from the other side. A quick shortcut. Bikes are allowed for movement and I take this opportunity to go from one end of the bridge to the other and back. While returning, I wait for a while mid-way on the bridge as the pre-wedding photo shoot is in progress. I somehow squeeze through and reunite with CSR sir and his wife who are content seeing the bridge from a distance. Back on the road. We have covered almost half the distance.

The rest of the road turns and twists through mountains. The mountains are to our left and the valley towards our right. We are at a considerable height from the ground level passing through the dense vegetation cover. It seems the area is a protected wildlife sanctuary. I pass a board that mentions a type of monkey, endangered and unique to this forest. I don’t recollect the name now. The air is cooler than the lower levels and my visor fogs up as I do heavy breathing.

The entrance to the falls is marked with a brick-and-mortar archway denoting the name of the place. Further ahead, we reach the parking lot and join the many other people who have come to see the place. Cars outnumber bikes 9:1. 2 sides of the parking are taken by food stalls, the owners, shouting and waving at us to come and have something. We continue our way forward toward the location where the falls are visible. We are at one of the many sightseeing points of the falls. Having no idea before, Google Maps has led us here. There are some buildings inside the vast lush complex. The government sure does know how to market tourist places. There is a hotel building inside which looks like it has been abandoned for a long.

Falls are visible now as we climb down some steps to get a complete view. The site is magnificent and grand. Mobiles are taken out automatically and so do the DSLR, which I happen to carry just in case I need a close shot. We are able to see tourists watching from another viewpoint. The water is cascading down with immense force, creating a frothy texture to it. The place at the bottom where it hits cannot be seen from up here. Still, the mission gets accomplished. We have seen the 2nd highest waterfall in India and a major tourist point in Karnataka. We return to the parking lot, this time, stopping at one of the stalls to refresh ourselves with cold lime juice. The weather is cloudy and humid and it makes us sweat profusely!

Our next destination is Yana Rocks which is closer to our resort and next to Gokarna. We return via the same road which we came and stop near Honnavar to have our lunch. Lunch is a typical south-style thali consisting of Rice and an assortment of veggies along with roti. We finish off the heavy lunch and move towards Kumta with the sun beating down on us. Keeping pace is the key to ensuring you get enough air blast to keep you cool.

Rejoining the highway again towards Kumta and from there again sidelining off into the jungle with a single carriage road leading all the way towards Yana Rocks which is a kind of a dead end. We enjoy the roads which are wet due to light showers and all around we are surrounded by dense plantations of beetle nuts and bananas. We arrive at a huge parking lot which marks the end of the road. There are a lot of vehicles already parked there signaling an influx of tourists. Small cars to big buses can be seen standing in the parking lot. The hike will take around 30 mins to reach the rocks. We buy tickets and proceed ahead.

“Yana is famous for these two massive rock outcrops known as the Bhairaveshwara Shikhara and the Mohini Shikhara (“Shikhara” means “hill”). The huge rocks are composed of solid black, crystalline karst limestone. Bhairaveshwara Shikhara is 120 meters (390 ft) in height, while the Mohini Shikhara, which is smaller, is 90 meters (300 ft) in height. Yana is also well known as a pilgrimage center because of the cave temple below the Bhairaveshwara Shikhara where a Swayambhu (“self-manifested”, or “that which is created by its own accord”) linga has been formed. Water drips from the roof over the Linga, adding to the sanctity of the place.”

The trail, for the beginning portion, is completely off-road and really tests us. The path gradually climbing up but not noticeable. We take it slowly, bodies sweating. There is raw beauty all around us with dense forests and trees as high as you could see.

We now approach the section of the trail from where the stairs start. It looks like climbing the stairs is much more difficult than walking on a stony surface. The stair’s height is more in some places which makes stepping difficult due to sore calf muscles. The railing helps to some extent and we take regular breaks. We can now see the limestone karts which were, till now hidden due to the forest cover. They seem to be huge with their pointy heads jutting towards the sky. The karsts look surreal and really out of this world, at least Non-Indian!

We reach the top to find ourselves surrounded by a large number of people. This place indeed looks famous. It seems, a lot of people have come from the Gokarna side too! The area is like flat ground. To one corner sits a small shack that sells snacks and cold drinks. Opposite the shack is the temple which sits underneath the limestone karst. 

I head inside the temple to take the blessings while CSK sir and his wife wait outside for me. After that, I head inside the towering karst on the back side of the temple through an arched inclined stairway that leads straight into its core. It’s like entering a stomach of a giant monster!

It’s basically a naturally formed cave. The width between the 2 resting karsts is barely enough for you to move. They look sinister when viewed from the ground straight up to the sky. Lights penetrate from above through the gaps. Not many people are here as I soak into the environment. A unique experience for me! 

I exit from the other side through a rough patch with broken stairs that curls all the way down to the side of the temple. CSK sir and his wife are waiting for me up head near the shack. I narrate to them my experience as we prepare ourselves to head down toward the base. The sky is changing its color as dusk is rolling in. The time is 4:30 pm and we decide to move back to our hotel.

It’s a race against time to watch the sunset by the sea and we just make it in the final moments of the sun going down below the horizon. We had missed the sunset of the previous day and what could be a better place to watch a sunset than sitting by the beach with a cup of hot tea in your hand? 

Day 3: Kumta – Coorg – Mysore: 475 km

We check out from the hotel early around 6 am. The distance to Mysore is close to 500 km and half a portion of it will pass through dense natural forests which means controlled speed. We first head towards Murudeshwara temple which is on the way, around 50 km. The skies are cloudy.

We reach around 7:30 am. The area is full of people having come to visit the temple. The parking also seems full. It takes some time before we find a suitable location to park the car and bike. The security guard is frustrated with me for having parked the bike in 4 wheeler area. I argue with him for the bike’s safety but he does not listen. Finally, I park in the bike parking lot. I keep all my gear in CSK sir’s car and we proceed towards the entrance. We are unable to keep our eyes off the massive structure which is in front of us. The tower-like structure is huge and it seems like it is penetrating into the sky. We tilt our heads to 90 deg to see the top of it. Capturing all of the structure in one frame becomes a challenge.

Murudeshwar Temple is a famous Hindu temple located in the coastal town of Murudeshwar in the Indian state of Karnataka. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and is situated on a hill overlooking the Arabian Sea. It is one of the most popular pilgrimage destinations in South India. The temple is known for its 123-feet tall statue of Lord Shiva, which is the second tallest statue of Lord Shiva in the world. The statue is located on a platform that is 80-feet tall. The statue of Lord Shiva is surrounded by smaller statues of other gods and goddesses. The temple complex also includes a Gopura (tower) that is 249-feet tall, making it the second tallest Gopura in the world. The Gopura has several levels, each with intricate carvings and sculptures. The temple also has a sacred pond known as the Koti Tirtha, which is believed to be the meeting point of the Ganges, Yamuna, and Saraswati rivers. Devotees believe that taking a dip in the Koti Tirtha will wash away their sins. The Murudeshwar Temple attracts thousands of devotees every year, especially during festivals like Maha Shivaratri and Karthika Deepam. The temple is also a popular tourist destination, and visitors can enjoy the stunning views of the Arabian Sea from the temple complex.

The large crowd is attributed to the current festive season of ‘Navarati’. Most of the people are tourists here. It seems, they too like us have come to witness the beauty of Karnataka not forgetting to experience the ‘Mysore Dussehra’.

After taking the blessings, we exit the temple and head towards the Shiva statue at the back of the temple. It’s a small walk of 5 mins to the top. The statute is massive. We get a commanding view position of the surroundings. The beach seems crowded with people even at this time of the hour. A light breeze hits us from the seaside giving us some relief. We spend quite some time taking in the aura of the place. We do breakfast at the temple complex itself before hitting the road. The humidity in the air seems to be increased.

We decide to stick together on the road so that we don’t lose each other as the distance to go was large. The road condition is good and quite frequently we can see the sea to our right side. We stop 2-3 times along the way to capture the scenery with our machines. 

The sun has grown in intensity and as soon as we stop, the body starts sweating profusely. All the vents are open on my riding jacket and pants. To keep moving is the only option to force air through the vents to provide cooling. Constantly hydrating yourself is the key. The highway tarmac is in excellent condition which maintains our speed at around 80 kmph. It’s a straight line towards Mangalore, after which we need to head inwards.

At Udipi, I ditch the national highway and take interior roads. I am told by CSK sir that there is one road that runs parallel to the coast for quite a long time and the views are stunning. I agree with him and get excited about the opportunity to experience something new. Within no time, I see myself alone on the road with the sea just within my hand’s reach.

From Udipi to Mangalore, we drive straight without a break and then turn eastwards towards Mysore taking the internal roads. The roads worsen as we leave the highway straight away. At the start, the roads are potholed but later on, we get a mix of mud and slush due to recent rains. The speed is reduced due to ongoing construction work. It is a test of our concentration as we weave through the traffic. 

We stop for lunch ahead on the same road around 2 pm. We get a huge platter of food in South Indian style. The rice type looks huge. The kind of not seen by me till now. The owner tells me he gets this type from Kerala. The lunch becomes a show stopper, we are barely unable to move due to the portions we got.

We still have a lot of distance to cover and so we push ahead. 

The vegetation density increases as we push forward toward the mountain regions of Madikeri. Suddenly the traffic diminishes and the roads become a single carriage. We feel like we are driving through a national forest!

The dampness in the air and the heavy clouds looming above us coupled with our cold bodies force us to stop at a roadside stall to have a cup of tea. His is the only shop which can be seen for miles in both directions. The owner obliges our request for tea and starts preparing it while we admire the surroundings. The road is wet and so am I. The bike color is hardly recognizable.

After tea, we make our way towards Coorg, a popular hill station and summer retreat for people down south. The altitude increases as we move further. The area starts to surround by long hanging mist and the whole picture seems like a dreamy state with an occasional drizzle. I skip wearing my rain gear. The sun seems to be completely devoured by the clouds. 

We start seeing coffee plantations everywhere as the surrounding hills are completely covered by coffee trees. The roads start to twist and turn as we climb toward the top and then get down. This is the only place we see a large number of vehicles and many hotels can be seen dotted on the hilltops catering to tourists and travelers. From the top, we move down to the base dropping our altitudes. At the base again, with dusk about to fall, we stop for a quick coffee break at a popular coffee shop that sources coffee from nearby areas. The coffee taste excellent. We have it with croissants and then make our final 100 km push towards Mysore.

We manage to slice off 20 kms from our 100km target in whatever light is available but, for the rest, we ride in the dark. I drive cautiously and reduce my speed since the road is a single carriageway and most of the vehicles on the other side are driving with their headlights in ‘upper’ mode. Its a challenge to see what’s right in front of you. Luckily, we are saved at least from the potholes as we didn’t hit any. 

We know the location of CSK Sir’s boss’s house and I trail behind their car once we enter the city. The city is all lit up at all the junctions and crossroads. The light poles, signal posts, and trees are all covered with string lights, and it’s a sign to behold. I record it on my GoPro when we halt at the signal. 

Finally, we arrive at his place. Both, Naveen sir and his wife greet us and ask about our today’s ride. We are welcomed inside following which we have a brief moment of discussions on various topics. After that, we get ready for the lovely dinner which is prepared by his wife. We really eat to our limits and the same lunch scenario is repeated here again. 

Our lodging arrangements have been made in his grandmother’s house which is just around the block. After dinner, we head there saying our goodbyes. Tomorrow, we are invited for morning breakfast before we begin our exploration of Mysore City.

Day 4: Mysore – Mysore: 0 km

Finally, we are in Mysore. A city of rich heritage and tradition. A city ruled by kings. A city that has a lot attached to it and yet only a few things are known.

We rise early and get ready to explore the city. The sun has already come up by now. As I watch through the balcony, the area in front is completely empty only crowded by trees with occasional houses which can be numbered on hand. Faraway in the distance, morning mist still can be seen clinging to the trees.

Naveen sir greets us after some time. He has brought traditional breakfast for us which we all have. We all have tea before we leave the house. All 3 of us will be going in a car. Our first stop is Chamundi Temple situated atop Chamundi hills, which, earlier in the night was lit up with lights. The city looks completely different during the day as compared to what it looks during the nighttime.

Chamundi temple is a well-known place and many people throng to visit the goddess and take her blessings. We reach the top via a road that slowly climbs up the hill. The area around the temple is huge and everything seems to be organised. It looks like a fair. There is multi-level parking available. We park the car and head straight towards the entrance. As many as the same amount of people who are going up are coming down. As we climb the flight of stairs, shops on both sides are packed with devotees buying different stuff. We reach the entrance after going through the maze of people. There is a long queue of people outside the entrance. 

The ‘free’ line is so big that it can take a complete day to enter inside the temple. We come to know that there is also a paid line which will make things faster for us. Since we are running on a tight schedule, we decide to buy the tickets. Like us, there are many people who have bought the ticket as our line swells slowly. We still wait for quite some time before we are allowed to enter inside. Meanwhile, there is a ruckus created by ‘free’ people who think that they are being ignored and only ‘paid’ people are being sent inside. The scene is typical of a parliament session going on with everyone shouting and yelling on top of each other.

By the time we come out of the temple, it’s already noon. Our next stop in the itinerary is the well-known Mysore Palace which is the gem of the city. Before we proceed, we stop at the ‘Le Olive Garden’ for a sumptuous lunch.

Somehow, during our lunch, CSK sir checks whether the tickets to the palace can be bought online, and to our delight, we do find a website that sells them. The hotel staff are courteous and help us in taking the printout of our copies. 

We reach the palace entrance. The 4-wheeler parking is almost full and we struggle to get one. Looks like, the whole of the city has come to visit the palace. There is a huge line of people outside the entry gate. Each one is being issued an entry ticket before being led inside by security. We are the only ones with pre-booked tickets. We skip the line and after we show our copies we are let in. The online tickets almost saved an hour for all 3 of us.

The palace area inside is huge. The people are everywhere. It’s like a large fair going on. We are constantly being photo bombed when trying to take photos. The Palace is located on one side and in front of it is a large expanse of gardens. 

First, we move towards the flower show which is happening on the palace grounds. The area is decorated very well. A lot of flowering plants are kept for display and it’s a visual treat to watch the vivid colors. There are also some structures that are entirely made from flowers like the Red Fort of Delhi and even some animals are being shaped out of the flowers giving them a realistic look of roaming the gardens.

After the garden show, we decide to enter the palace, our main point of interest. Outside, preparation is in full swing for the final day procession. A stage of some kind is being built which will see many dignitaries watching the event. 

We move toward the palace entrance but are shocked to see a huge crowd trying to force themselves inside. These are the same people who were standing outside the entrance gate when we came to show our online tickets. Everyone wants to go inside and people are literally pushing and showing each other. The scene is a mess and we take a call whether to go inside or not. It’s no use to visit the palace when there is such a large crowd. We analyze the situation and think that we won’t be able to see the palace peacefully which such people around. We don’t want to rush. The crowd is just growing in numbers and I wonder how will they be able to see for it themselves.

We leave immediately feeling sad that we could not see the highlight of the trip. We make up our minds to visit the palace in some other part of the year but not during the Dasara festival. Even though we could not see it from the inside, we still can see it from the outside during the night when the palace will be lit with a million lights making it the 8th wonder of the world.

We then decide to visit the Jaganmohan Palace and Art Gallery. This museum is right beside the Palace and entry is via a ticket costing 60rs. The outside look is of a millionaire’s mansion. We park the car and head inside. 

The whole of Mysore’s history is depicted in the art gallery ranging from Paintings of the rulers to the daily items used by them, imported unique items to the gifted items which came from outside India. Even costumes used by royalty are on display. The gallery is divided into 3 floors. Make sure you give enough justice to this gallery and have ample time in hand if you are a history lover. There is a lot to see and to be included in your Mysore itinerary. 

We stayed there till the keeper was chasing us to leave since the gallery time was over. We had spent close to 1.5 hrs inside. Dusk rolled in as we stepped outside the gallery. A good coffee sold by the lady next to the art gallery refreshed us.

We could hear some sounds coming in from the back of the art gallery. It seemed like some performance was going on, kind of a theatrical show. The lady told us that a cultural program was going on which is part of the week-long Dasara festival and was organized by the Karnataka state government. 

It was a big hall with a stage in the front. A good amount of people were present inside. We took our chairs and watched as various groups presented their performances. Some were traditional folk dances and folk songs from within and outside the region. We even listened to musical sessions with traditional instruments. After spending sufficient time inside, we decided to move out and experience the grandeur of the city at night. We planned to have a look at the Palace with all its lights on. 

We got stuck in the traffic as soon as we moved out on the road. It was complete mayhem around the Palace. Everyone was out there on the roads. We checked the maps on Google and everything was showing as red. There were no alternate routes that we could take and as a result, we had to stay put on the same road. Going inside the palace was out of bounds as we couldn’t even change our lanes. We were crawling at a snail’s pace. As we slowly left the Palace perimeter, the traffic started to move a little and we were finally free after traveling much further. Along the way, I tried to snap a picture of the lit Palace and somehow, after many successful photo bombings by people, managed to get one that was fit enough for a good photo!

As decided earlier in the day, we were going to have dinner with Naveen Sir outside. He had sent us the location of the hotel and we were heading there now. It was on the outer ring road of Mysore away from the city’s crowd. The time was around 8:15 pm and it took us 1.5 hrs for a 10 km journey.

We were a total of 5 people and Naveen sir’s nephew had also joined. We checked into M Pro Palace Hotel which was on the roof. The food was good as we had a mix of Veg as well as Non-Veg. After our dinner, we decided to once again head back to Chamundi Hill as we thought the traffic must have died down and we could get a good look at the lit city from the top. But, when we reached the foothills, the entrance to the top was closed since the gates were closed. The last time was 10 pm which we had missed clearly.

Dejected, we headed back home. The exploring chapter for the day came to a close and since we were tired, we immediately crashed onto our beds and called it a day.

Day 5: Mysore – Mysore: 0 km

Today was the last day of our stay in Mysore. Also, it was an important one since it was the day when the Dasara Procession took place. This was the moment for which we had come to Mysore to witness. It was going to be a busy day as we had many things lined up for sightseeing.

We started early in the morning from our residence with Naveen Sir joining us to show his newly acquired property, not far away from his home. This, he told us was specifically developed as a budget-friendly place to accommodate visiting travelers to the city. It was done in G+3 style with commercial shops lining the ground floor. The 1st to 3rd floor was dedicated to solo as well as group travelers with separate semi-luxury rooms for traveling couples. This was Naveen Sir’s retirement project shaping up and he was quite happy being an ardent traveler himself. After the guided tour of this property, we were back to our plan. and headed towards Tipu Sultan’s Summar Place located in Srirangpatanam, close to 14 km from the city. On the way, we stopped for an authentic South Indian breakfast.

We parked our car outside in the parking lot and went inside walking. Purchasing our entry tickets, we quickly took a guide that we thought would best help us understand the place a little more. The guide was very well-informed and told us all the minute details of the palace. The palace was surrounded by lush green gardens from all sides. We felt sad that some of the areas were very prohibited inside the palace as they seemed to have been damaged the guide told us that most of the damage to the paintings and other structures was done by people. As a result, we could not touch and get a skin feel of the monument! We left the place after some time and headed towards his Tomb!

The tomb is just a walkable distance from his summer place. This was the place which we thought was more crowded than his palace. This is the place where he was buried alongside his parents in 1799 after his death in the battle of Srirangpatnam where he was defeated by the British. It’s a beautifully done Mosoleum which was constructed somewhere between 1782-84. Most of the visitors were Muslim.

After the tomb, we headed towards the Ranganatittu bird sanctuary, close to 8kms. This was added to our itinerary as it had a good amount of ratings on Google and so we decided to pay it a visit. At the entrance, we had to pay entrance fees. This sanctuary is the largest in the state which covers roughly 40 hectares with Kaveri River flowing through it. We found out that there was a chargeable boat ride on the river and this was the best way to experience the fauna of the sanctuary. Since I was carrying my DSLR with a zoom lens we thought of giving it a go. We were charged for the camera too!

The boat ride was awesome and we came very close to some birds who were nested in the trees. The person driving the boat helped us identify the variety of birds present there. The DSLR was put to maximum use. We even sighted big crocodiles basking in the sun over a rock that resembled an iceberg. The boat ride was totally worth it as we spent close to 45 minutes on the water. After we disembarked, we explored the remaining areas which resembled a large garden housing many varieties of trees. It was quite hot and stuffy and after having some refreshing cool drinks we left the place for Brindavan Gardens, our next stop in the itinerary.

Brindavan Gardens is the most visited place in Mysore city. Almost every tourist who comes to Mysore happens to visit the place so we expected a large crowd to be present. It was past 3 p.m. when we headed in that direction, around 15 km from the sanctuary. Spread across 60 acres, it has the largest parking lot I have seen to date for any kind of garden. The parking lot seemed almost full when we entered. It was a long walk through rows of street shops selling an assortment of stuff. From food stalls to toy shops to garments. You name it, the area had it all covering all the age groups!

It was a long walk toward the entry gate and after we purchased our tickets, we were left awestruck by its sheer size. It was so large and widespread and for a moment we got confused as to which direction to head to. It had all kinds of flora one could imagine. The garden was further adorned by the many varieties of fountains which were spewing water in various shapes. We were told that there was an evening musical fountain show which was the main highlight of this place but since we had to run quickly to the city to witness the Dussehra procession we decided to skip it and in turn cover as much of the garden as possible. We spent close to 1 and a half hours exploring various places in the gardens and posing numerous times for photos in front of the gardens. Almost every plant and its flower was captured on my mobile.

We left the place around 5:30 pm and headed towards the city center where we were going to witness the procession. I have taken some excerpts from Wikipedia regarding the procession which is presented below.

On Vijayadashami, the traditional Dasara procession (locally known as Jumboo Savari) is held on the streets of Mysore city. The main attraction of this procession is the idol of the Goddess Chamundeshwari which is placed on a golden mantapa (which is around 750 kilograms of gold) on the top of a decorated elephant. This idol is worshipped by the royal couple and other invitees before it is taken around in the procession. Colourful tableaux, dance groups, music bands, decorated elephants, horses and camels form a part of the procession which starts from the Mysore Palace and culminates at a place called Bannimantap where the banni tree (Prosopis spicigera) is worshipped. According to a legend of the Mahabharata, banni tree was used by the Pandavas to hide their weapons during their one-year period of Agnatavasa (living life incognito). Before undertaking any warfare, the kings traditionally worshipped this tree to help them emerge victorious in the war.^[17] The Dasara festivities would culminate on the night of Vijayadashami with an event held in the grounds at Bannimantap called as Panjina Kavayatthu (torch-light parade).

So, this being the grand event for which everyone is excited to see with their own eyes, we hurriedly came to a place in the city center which we were told could offer the best views to get a glimpse of the beautiful procession. We came to the area called Bamboo Bazaar where upon reaching we could hardly find parking space for a car. We literally had to park our car a km back and walk toward the area from where we could see the procession. The darkness had already fallen by that time and the city now took a different look with all the dazzling lights from the light fixtures installed everywhere. As we pushed forward through the crowd and towards the road, the density of people kept on increasing and at some point, I had to literally squeeze between the people to push further. Seeing this, CSK Sir and his wife backed up since it was risky as there was a high probability of a stampede and something went wrong as people were desperate to get to the front row. There was virtually no gap left and everyone was jumping and manhandling each other to get a glimpse of the procession which was now passing through. I could see the procession from the distance as I fought with whatever strength I had to make it to the front. At one point, I literally gave up and just stood there with a half-view of the procession visible. Taking out the mobile to record was a big challenge and somehow I was able to remove it. As soon as I hit the shutter button, the much sought-after thing in the procession just passed through my eyes, the decorated Elephant at that moment, I could get some seconds on the video and this marked an end to our Mysore Dussehra.

The procession for that particular place was over since the elephant was the last in the line of the procession. The crowd quickly dispersed in multiple directions and I found it hard to go back to our parking spot. I got reunited with CSK sir and his wife who were comfortably standing at the side of the road. The crowd was so mad to get back home that we had to wait literally for 15 minutes for the intensity to come down so that we could walk comfortably to our parking spot. It was at this precise moment that I lost my Rayban aviators which were kept in my cargo shorts’ bottom side pocket. I owe this loss to the maddening crowd of Mysore!

We decided to end the day by treating ourselves to Pizza at the Pizza Hut. We also bought some traditional Mysore snacks and sweet items from a nearby famous sweet shop. It was around 9:45 pm as we headed home tired and somewhat feeling accomplished on whatever we had planned to do in Mysore. Our only regret of the trip was not able to take a tour of Mysore Palace from the inside but we have kept it for the next time.

The next day, CSK Sir and his wife headed home towards Pune while I would be heading towards Chikmagalur as I had 2 more days of leaves left. The Tour of Mysore had ended on a great note.

Day 6: Mysore – Chikmagalur: 209 km

The Mysore chapter had come to an end. It was time to turn back home. While planning for the trip, I decided to take a halt in Chikmagalur and explore it. The choice alternated between Coorg and Chikmagalur. The heart followed the latter.

I had never used Air BnB for booking before though I knew what it was and how it functioned. I normally avoid staying at hotels and prefer places where I can get intimate with strangers and listen to their life stories and the places. I wanted a homestay kind of living and Air BnB just helped with that. And, with that, I was booked with a family for 2 nights at their residence located in the coffee estates in the thick forests of Chikmagalur! My host’s name was Aaron. He sent me the location of his stay over the phone and off I was towards Chikmagalur. The distance was 209 km. By the time, I was ready and the bike was loaded with the luggage, the time was 7:40 a.m. CSK Sir and his wife had already left by that time.

I was out of the city in no time. The traffic was sparse and the roads were mostly single-carriageway. The atmosphere was pleasant as I crisscrossed through lush green paddy fields. I was in no mood to hurry towards my destination as the views were a treat to the eyes.

At around 9 am I stopped for breakfast at a roadside stall. The items were typical of what a South Indian breakfast consists of. After having the generous breakfast, it was time to push further.

The road surfaces were cracked at some locations but other than that it was a smooth ride. The amount of greenery increased as I neared Chikmagalur which sits at a height of 3580 ft above M.S.L. I crossed the towns of Hasan and Bellur before entering Chikmagalur. I topped up my fuel tank knowing that I would be riding in hilly areas now and there might be a shortage of fuel stations in the area.

My homestay was located in the core interior part of the Chimagalur forest. The thick forest cover has totally enveloped me. The area seemed dominated by Coffee plantations along with Areca Nut, Palm, and Pepper trees. I was easily able to locate the homestay which seemed to me like a big palace at first. The main house is located some distance from the entrance gate. I was greeted well by Aaron’s dog welcoming me with his never-ending barks. I thought Aaron would be there to receive me but I later came to know that he was out of state and his Mom and Dad were happy to receive me and made me feel at home.

I was really amazed by his house and the way it was decorated and constructed. My room was on the 1st floor and all around numerous trees were planted. At the back of his house, he had his coffee and pepper plantations. Being an avid plant lover, I was totally awestruck by the plants which I hadn’t seen till now. Many of them were flowering plants and I immediately went on a photo spree.

I spent quite some time in their open garden taking it all in. After that, I freshened up and changed into my riding gear once again as I still had half a day left to me. There was no fixed itinerary planned for the day but I remembered Naveen Sir telling me about the blooming of Neelakurunji flowers this season. The flowers only bloom once in 12 years and it was their 12th year and the surrounding hills were full of that plants. It was a rare moment to capture and I thought should not be missed.

After googling on the phone, I found out that the maximum flower blooming had happened on a hill named Mullayyanagiri, which was 50km from my current position. Wasting no further time, I immediately headed in that direction armed with my GoPro.

All of the 50kms riding was done through dense forest. The atmosphere was somewhat damp and musky and I could see coffee and pepper plants all along the way. The traffic was almost nil since I had planned a direct uncommon route toward the peak. It was only after rejoining the main road that I could see people like me heading towards the peak to witness the once-in-a-blue-moon phenomenon. Most of them were in their cars. The temperature started to dip as we gained height and we also encountered light showers when we reached the top of the peak. It is said that the first coffee trees in India were planted here by a Saint who had just emigrated from Persia. His name was Baba Budangiri.

At the top, I immediately parked my bike at the roadside and went straight to the fields which had a look of light pink colors due to the immense blooming of the flowers. It got me so confused that for a moment I thought where to click the selfie so that I could get the maximum number of flowers captured in the frame. Many people were doing the same as me. It felt like a mission accomplished and I thought this event was a cherry on the cake to my already concluded Tour of Mysore. I couldn’t have asked anything more than this and more than that I thought it was my great luck that I was at the right place and at the right time.

It was 4:45 pm and I knew that evening would come quickly. The sky was already overcast which further reduced the light intensity. On my way back down, the forest was engulfed with mist so dense that It resembled a morning fog. I stopped for a quick photo break before descending further down.

Since there was no alternate fastest route back home, I had to retrace my steps the way I had come and it was obvious that I raced as fast as I could to escape riding in the jungle at night. I was totally oblivious to the types of wildlife present in this area. It was totally dark and I could hear the crickets singing at full volume with the occasional sound of the vehicle engines passing by. There was complete silence and the night was fallen quickly. I thought of having dinner outside and informed Aaron well in advance not to include me in their dinner. I had thought that I would easily get a hotel to eat something but I had got my calculations wrong. I was far away from the city and located deep inside the jungle and finding a hotel at this hour proved to be a challenge to me. I had to race back and forth on the same road for umpteen times till I could locate one which I had initially thought was closed. The time was around 7:30 pm but it already felt like it was midnight. Even humans were difficult to spot outside of their homes.

I was the only customer at the hotel at that hour and the owner was a good person. He told me not to worry and went inside to prepare the best meal for me with whatever ingredients were available to him. He presented me with fried chicken along with egg-fried rice which tasted really well. The food was piping hot which helped in increasing my body temperature. The cold had settled outside. After paying my bills and thanking him for his helping attitude, I headed straight towards the homestay which was around 4 kms .

Heading straight up, I immediately crashed into my bed. My aching body touched the warm soft bed. It made me fall asleep in no time. The crickets were in for a full night of loud music DJ with their unknown friends. It was an end to a wonderful day and a capturing once-in-a-blue moon event which otherwise would have been missed and would have been repeated only after 12 years!

Day 7: Chikmagalur – Chikmagalur: 0 km

Today was kind of my rest day in Chikmagalur. Actually, it was going to be my busiest day as I had a list of places to cover in and around Chikmagalur as suggested by Aaron.

Upon getting up, I had a leisurely stroll around the coffee plantations situated at the back of his house. The weather seemed damp and it felt like taking a walk inside a dense jungle. The coffee shrubs were supplemented by tall palm trees upon which the pepper vines had climbed. The bunch of peppers that had grown on the plant were still raw and the same was the case for Robusta Coffee. The sun had come up and the rays hit me through the gaps between the trees. After spending a good amount of morning time, I head back to the house to get ready for today’s sightseeing.

Aaron suggested that I visit Rani Jhari Edge Point as well as Devaramane Viewpoint as they offer stunning views of the lush green valleys. He also suggested paying a visit to the only coffee museum of Chikmagalur if I am left with time. I quickly mapped all the places on my Google Maps and started my day. The owner was kind enough to supply me with my morning coffee!

The road was scenic right from the start with coffee plantations on both sides of the road. After a few minutes, I stopped at one such coffeehouse for breakfast. They had made a shack which fronted the main road and the decor was done in old wooden style. As I sipped my coffee, I could see the plantations at my back and the main road with vehicles passing by at my front. The breakfast consisted of French toast and this served as a good energy booster for the remainder of the trip. I left the place around 10:30 a.m.

Along the road I even found tea plantations dotting the hill slope. It was such a beautiful site to behold and I quickly stopped to take some snaps. The small closely spaced tea bushes gave the hill a kind of different look.

The road was all twists and turns as I made my way toward the viewpoint and also gained some altitude along the way. The traffic was almost nil and I could see the top of the nearby mountains hidden from the mist. The temperature also dipped as I pushed forward. I was lucky to have an encounter with a peacock who just in time managed to cross the road as I passed him.

When I reached the top of the viewpoint, I found out that it was not that commercialized. There was a single small shack selling tea, biscuits, water bottles, and some light snacks. Apart from that there was nothing to be seen. I had to park by bike there as I made my way up climbing for like 5 minutes towards the top. It really seemed to be an isolated place. A very few crowd was present along with me. I really didn’t understand what the viewpoint offered as the whole place was covered in mist and this really dampened the spirits of others as well. Like me, they strolled at the top for some time before returning back to the parking lot. But like it’s said, every location offers something or the other. I was presented with beautiful scenery of mountains all around with mist encircling them. It was really a splendid site to witness and I was satisfied with what I could see. It really felt something out of this world.

Back at the shack, I had some light snacks before moving on to my next place. The Devaramne looked enticing when I first saw its pictures on Google. It looked tempting to the eyes as well as the camera lens. I only sincerely wished that the place be devoid of any mist which would have made the game over for me again. I left the place around 12:30 p.m.

The distance was around 38 km, half of which was to be traveled on the same patch through which I had come. So practically, I had to ride only 19 km of new roads. This new section was not like the first one and it was a mix of good and bad tarmac. I could see many people heading towards this place. Some were on bikes while the others were in Cars. The parking lot was a full mix of these 2 types when I reached the place.

The get to the viewpoint, one had to hike for like 15 minutes. Wasting no time, I joined like the others to the top. The whole path was rugged as there were no proper steps to reach the top. People simply followed the patch which was kind of made automatically after many years of hiking to the top. After reaching the top, the views were totally worth it. There was no mist but the sky was a little choppy with grey clouds which covered the sun from time to time.

The valley was completely lush green and I felt like I was in another country. The scene was made even more intense when the sun came up and the rays brightened the green all around. People were everywhere clicking photos. There was one hilltop situated even higher than my current position and I decided to pay a visit there also which further added to my hike time of 10 minutes.

This top offered the same views but the little height advantage that I got was well received by intense wind hitting my face. As I sat on one of the rocks viewing the valley, a moment of silence hit me. I lay there absorbing the chilly wind as well as the warmth of the sunshine together. The grass fronds were happily swaying in the winds. It was such a place that one could easily meditate without any disturbance. After my little time spent meditating there, I climbed down the hill towards my bike. I was a bit hungry by now having spent some precious energy during the hike. The time was around 2:30 p.m.

From here, I decided to head towards the Coffee Museum which was around 57 km. The roads were quite good compared to that morning as I passed numerous villages along the way. I even passed some plant nurseries offering varieties of plants. Midway through my journey, I stopped at a roadside hotel to eat something as it was past my lunch hour and I desperately needed to eat something. I ordered a ‘fast’ food menu of egg-fried rice which was delivered in a ‘fast’ manner as advertised.

The coffee museum was located just a tad outside the city center of Chikmagalur and finding it was easy with the help of Google Maps. Though the entrance to the museum is through a small line bisecting the main road, initially I doubted whether it was the right way but upon reaching its gates and seeing the museum board, I was relieved that I was indeed in the right place. I bought myself an entry ticket after parking my bike in the parking lot and entered inside.

The whole atmosphere gave the feeling of a large bungalow kind of architecture. Though it seemed to give the impression of being a multi-storied building, all the places of interest were on the ground floor itself. The inside walls were better utilized which had large posters giving various information about coffee culture in India. There were only 3 to 4 groups of people who had joined me inside. Firstly, the supposed instructor of the place made us watch a movie about the coffee revolution in India and then he let us explore other rooms giving various information about coffee, from its origins to the varieties and various diseases associated with the plant.

It was a great learning session having almost Zero knowledge about coffee but being a Coffee lover to the core! There was even a room that showed different styles of brewing coffee and the techniques and instruments used. In one section, we could see varieties of coffee beans from all over the world, even the most sought-after coffee beans called ‘Kopi Luwak’ termed as the most expensive coffee in the world was to be seen there.

Having done the detailed go-through of the museum, it was time to head back towards my homestay as the evening was coming in fast and I didn’t want to ride in the dark in these unknown places. It was a 47 km ride back and almost half of it was covered in the dark. I was worried about the bugs hitting my helmet visor and obscuring my vision during the ride as there was dense jungle around. To my luck, I was saved by a large amount as the bugs didn’t create a problem that severe. I stopped at a roadside nursery along the way to buy myself some pepper plant which I’d planned to take back home. Just as I was about the reach the place, I stopped by a roadside coffee shack to get my last dose of coffee for the day. The coffee tasted smooth and I liked it so much that I told the smiling lady to brew me another cup. I noticed that she was also selling coffee so I happily bought a pack of instant coffee from her.

Just opposite the shack were rows of palm trees and above them in the black sky the moon was out in its full strength and just as it was about to hide in the clouds I managed to snap a photo! It was a surreal moment that marked the end of this beautiful South India trip.

Early the next morning, I made my way home traveling close to 700kms and reaching well within the daylight time. The Tour of Mysore ended on a splendid note!