Coast to Coast 2021: Puri to Digha


I get up late. It’s already bright outside as I see through the window. The sun has long come up and the time is 6:30 am. I get on packing my things for once last time as I would be reaching the last point on the Coastal India which is Bakkhali Beach. The excitement level is high and a sense of achievement runs through my veins. After all, what a trip it has been since the start. Every day, it’s been a new adventure.

Prepping the bike.

By 7 am, I mount all the stuff onto the bike. Meanwhile, the tea is getting ready for me. I inspect the bike for abnormalities and give myself a green signal. She’s all set to hit the road one last time. The plan after reaching the last point is to return back to Kolkata city to spend the night and thereafter, from tomorrow start the return journey back home taking the fastest route possible. I hope the plan materializes.

The tea is served as I watch the sun rising slowly over the sea while the waves crash against the soft sandy beach. The tea has a different flavor as I savor it. It’s time to say goodbye to the fellow caretakers of the guest house for a second time. I try to get some route info about the road to be taken after Konark but they are not 100% sure. So, the first stop is Konark, which is around 30 km. The roads run kissing the coast and offer one of the best views. I leave the place around 7:30 am.

The Guest House is situated right next to the beach.
One last cup of the Coastal Tour. Sunrise at Puri.
Checking the possibility of a Ferry ride with the caretakers of the Guest House.
Thanking the caretakers for the hospitality. I also enquire about the route ahead of Konark.
Odisha has a rich heritage of ancient and beautifully done temples. Apart from the widely known Konark, there are many places in Odisha.
City life.
Konark 32 km to go.
Almost all the road passes through ‘Balukhand-Konark Wildlife Sanctuary’ when on the way to Konark.

The roads are mostly single-lane and well paved. There’s also less traffic to be seen. To my left and right is the dense vegetation of trees with some of them in bad shape owing to the fury of the cyclones. Being very close to the coast, Puri and Konark are often faced with the wrath of the request cyclones affecting the biodiversity in the nearby areas.

I get to drive on this stretch a second time and still feel like it’s a new road. As I get a clear view of the beach, I stop to admire the raw beauty of nature. From here, Konark is not very far away. Hope that someone in Konark will be able to guide me about the ferry route service.

My ride for today.
Beautiful Morning views..
Postcard-perfect picture.

I reach Konark around 8 am and stop when I see 2 gentlemen in police uniform. I ask them about the ferry ride available ahead of and they too seem clueless but they try to phone a friend from the nearby region and give me positive confirmation that indeed, there is one such service and I can without doubt head ahead. I am grateful to them and thank them for their support. I push on. The ferry is still 30 km to go.

Enquiring about the route ahead from Konark.
The curious case of ‘Astaranga to Machhagan’ ferry ride.
clean and well-paved roads.

I now head towards Kakatput which is around 21kms. I pass through single-lane roads which are freshly paved. The houses are a mix of thatched roofs and open brick construction. I stop to fuel up in between before proceeding ahead. I reach the place at around 9 am and then turn right towards Astranga.

Kaktpur, 21 km to go.
Refueling up.
At Kakatpur.

As I head towards Astranga, I am stopped by a curious pair of men in a car. They wave me down and soon approach me. They start to enquire about my trip and the places I have covered to date. Just as the conversation is about to end, they ask me where I am headed from here. I tell them ‘Astranga’, to take the ferry to cross the river and go to the other side. They offer me advice not to proceed ahead as the ramp is not there to load the bike on the ferry and it would very difficult. Instead, they suggest to me to go to ‘Khandasahi’ where I will be easily able to cross the river to the other side on a boat. I thank them and move ahead. They wish me luck. If I would have not found them, It would have been an extra drive of 30 odd km going and returning.

Thanks to these gentlemen.
My new route from Khandasahi.

I pass through small villages and then through fields to arrive at my pickup point. I had not imagined the ride would pass through such places for me to arrive at my ferry point. At one point along the way, I stop and ask a few locals just to reconfirm. It’s not a commercial ferry point but a makeshift one which villagers use to go on the other side. Next to me, a big bridge lies which are not connected at the center. It’s almost 90% done.

passing through fields.
Asking the locals to reconfirm the route.

The ferry arrives around 9:40 am carrying fellow passengers along with it. We wait patiently for all of them to disembark. Then it’s our turn. The sailor calmly aligns the plank with the direction of the bike so that the bike can be taken over the plank and secured on the boat. By 10 am we are on the move against the loud cacophony of the boat’s engine.

Waiting for the ferry to arrive.
Waiting for the people to disembark.
Aligning the plank perpendicular to the boat. It was little difficult since the boat was rocking.
On the other side.

It’s the shortest ferry of the tour spanning just 5 mins. The unloader helps me to secure my bike on the sand firmly. I pay him and re-route my Google Maps to the next location which is ‘Paradeep’. The route will take me through interior roads at a total distance of 62 km. I slowly start to get hunger pangs as the time is way over my breakfast schedule.

Giving in to my hunger, I stop at a makeshift stall selling some snacks as I am unable to locate a proper hotel where I can get breakfast. I binge into some local snacks and biscuits along with enough qty of water to rehydrate myself. The heat is building up slowly and as I eat, sweat trickle down my forehead. The generous shopkeeper has let me use his electrical socket to charge my mobile phone meantime.

Breakfast consisted of small-time snacks and biscuits.

I get mixed roads of Tar as well as cement. The roads are single-laned and luckily with less traffic. Sometimes, I pass through villages located in the dense vegetation of trees and sometimes the road runs through the middle of the plain dotted with small bushes.

Buffalo’s grazing towards my right as I cruise by.
The highway towards “Paradeep”.
Mud and Thatched roof hut.
Very basic living.
Lime-coated trees. Mostly, Eucalyptus.

It takes around 1.5 hrs to reach Paradeep. From here, I change the highway and head towards ‘Kendrapara’ which falls on NH53. The total distance is 31 km. I hope the speed increases as the roads are wider and 2 laned. The time is 12:10 pm.

Driving for another half n hour or so, I take a diversion from the main highway and take the internal road. They are cemented as I now ride towards “Pattamundai” town which is 21 km. I complete riding 200 km since morning. The time is 1 pm.

The heat is considerable which makes riding a bit hard. I am forced to stop for a hydration break just ahead of ‘Aul’ barely driving for 30 minutes. It’s a juice shop and I patiently tell the owner that I need some refreshing drink. He tells me not to worry and orders me to sit. Meanwhile, I let my mobile get charged. The battery is draining rapidly as I rely solely on ‘Google Maps’ and the brightness of the screen is maxed out. I hear the mixie running and a few minutes later, I am presented with some sweet and sour concoction. I ask him what it is and he smiles with a wide grin. It will taste good, that’s what he says to me. It takes a while for all the contents in the glass to finish and he offers me another type of drink which I politely refuse. The taste is near too horrible and later, I drink water to clear off whatever taste remains in my mouth. The time on the clock is 1:40 pm.

The last point of the tour is still 450kms to go and somehow I feel that I won’t make it today. The village roads are full of activity and taking into consideration the roads, speed is controlled. I head towards ‘Bhadrak’ now which is 67 km.

The owner of the Juice shop.
Bhadrak, 56 km to go.

The roads are the same, single laned dotted with traffic, as a result, the speed is normal. Keeping the same momentum, I reach Bhadrak around 2:45 pm and thereby rejoin the NH16 highway towards Kolkata. The sun seems very low on the horizon and I fear what will be my destination for today. ‘Bakkhali Beach’, which is the last point just seems out of this world!

Heading towards Bhadrak.
Diversions like these further reduced my speed.

I rejoin the highway but the good road is still far from ahead. I have to take frequent diversions owing to road construction. After a while, I get the open stretch of the highway and I open the throttle. I ride continuously for 80 odd km and stop at a roadside shop for tea. I feel too tired by the day’s riding and need some refreshment to boost up my energy level. The time is 4 pm. Kolkata is a long way to go and even if I ride non-stop I won’t be able to reach it.

I recheck the Google Maps and find ‘Digha’ to be the apt place to end the day. Moreover, there seems to be a coastal road from there towards Kolkata. It seems to be the perfect route towards Kolkata. It’s just 81 km and ‘Google Maps’ shows that I would be able to reach it by 6:30 pm. ‘Digha’ is famous among tourists from Kolkata. I have heard it a lot on youtube. They say, it’s the ‘Goa’ for Kolkata and is usually crowded on all days of the year. It’s Friday today, and I expect some crowd to be present in Digha. With my ‘Google Map’ rerouted, I push towards the Coastal town of Digha.

Having some Tea and “Parle-G” biscuit.
At ‘Basta’ village for refueling.

After driving about 30 km, I turn inwards and take the state highway 57 towards Digha. The daylight is slowly fading and the roads turn from a Double lane to a single lane. The speed reduces and the roads are full of activity.

After Gujarat, I see these vehicles here too.
Nice temple architecture to my right.
A large population uses cycle in Odisha, both men and women.. A stark contrast amongst other states.
Local market. People sitting at the roadside selling items.

I leave the village limits only to be greeted by farmlands on both sides. It’s getting dark slowly but the good road helps me keep a steady pace. I am intended to reach as per the time given by ‘Google’.

Acres and acres of Paddy fields.
Sun is about to go down.

I stop to take a photo of the sunset. It is almost dark by now giving the sky a little dark greyish tone. The time is 5:22 pm. Digha is still 37 km to go.

Another Sunset view from the bridge.
Women riding pillion on a bicycle.
Single-lane traffic madness.
A portable DJ setup on the van with an assortment of lights.
About to reach Digha.

At around 6:30 pm I finally reach Digha. It’s dark everywhere and crowded. Private rickshaws and tourists can be seen everywhere and so are the hotels. I can barely see any private residence as I moved ahead. The whole area seems to be lit up by the LED boards of the hotel. It’s confusing for a traveler like me to see so many hotels. I resort to the wBooking.com app to ease the burden. In no time, I am guaranteed a confirmed booking and I move towards the direction of the hotel.

Excitement is turned to frustration as I am unable to locate the hotel given on the app. It’s not located where it was indicated on the app. I try in vain to locate it. I ask some people and they too are helpless. After much circling around, I again ask a few people, and out of them, I respond giving me the correct location. I am almost on the verge of collapse due to exhaustion.

Hotel Booking in progress.
Asking the locals.

When I arrive at my hotel ‘Annapurna’, the locals outside tell me that it’s difficult to get a room for a single person. You should be ‘married’ to get a room. It’s the general rule around due to many untoward incidents being reported. I tell them I am not that ‘type’ of guy and they tell me to check the hotel adjacent to the one I Booked. Thank God, I didn’t pay any advance amount.

I arrive at this hotel called ‘Niharika’ guest house located adjacent to the booked hotel. I go inside and tell the receptionist person my story. I even tell him about my Armed Forces background. His chest is filled with pride and he immediately offers to give me a room. We settle for a price of 400rs after he gives me a discount. The hotel guys help in shifting my luggage to the room. The time is around 6:45 pm.

The owner cum receptionist.
My Room for tonight.

After taking my bath and washing the dirty clothes, I head outside to find a good hotel for dinner. The time is around 8 pm. I am directed towards Hotel ‘Bhorpet’ by the receptionist guy. I plan to eat the much sought-after fish in this region which is ‘Hilsa’. Back in 2019, I missed eating it when in Kolkata city. Now, I am not able to control my tastebuds. It’s just a km away from my guest house.

Hotel Bhorpet.
Finding the ‘Hilsa’ in the menu card.
The fish waiting for me below the mustard oil curry.

I really have a ‘Stomach full’ of dinner and find it a little difficult to move around. The taste of the fish is really out of the world and after many years the same taste came back on my palate. I leave the restaurant as other enter at the same time.

I decide to take a stroll around on my bike seeing all the things around. There’s a huge rush everywhere and looks like a ‘Grand’ fair has been organized nearby. I head to the beach area and find it difficult to move around. Seems like all the Kolkata have been drained of people at put right at this beach. I struggle to get closer as street hawkers entice me with their various menus. Its pitch dark but still people can be seen enjoying the waters while the rest of them occupy the sitting area near the footpath. It’s complete madness everywhere as I watch the mayhem. I don’t recognize this amount of crowd I have ever seen in Goa during the daytime.

There’s no point sitting around as I retrace my steps back to the hotel. Its sleep time and what was regarded as my last day of the trip has just turned out to be the second last.

The huge rush at the Digha beach.

It’s gonna be the end of the Coastal tour tomorrow as the distance is less than 200kms. Interestingly, I will be taking 2 ferries to reach my endpoint. The thought of riding over the ferry once again just excites me as I crash into my bed.

Youtube Video of the Episode.