Coast to Coast 2021: Manamelkudi to Chennai


By 6:30 am, I am ready and all the luggage has been packed on the bike. I head towards the hotel where I had my dinner last night for my morning dose of Tea. It’s bright outside and shops are opening for businesses.

My Morning dose of Tea.

“Chennai” seems doable as I check my google maps for a possible end destination. “Chennai” is marked as I get ready for yet another scenic ride on the eastern coast. I simultaneously drop a message to my biker friend ‘Shiv’ saying that I would be arriving in the evening. A moment later, a reply comes that says he is more than happy to host me. It’s time to enjoy the journey now.

Morning dew settles on the road and makes it just ‘wet’ and it gives a feeling like a freshly paved road. Traffic can hardly be seen and the sun rises slowly on my right. I see villagers getting into their daily work and I enjoy the beautiful scenery all around me. Paddy fields all over.

The morning fog still wrestles with the sun giving the haziness look all around and providing a certain amount of chill in the air. The scene looks something like a ‘dreamy’ situation.

Sunrise.
Nicely painted boat being tucked away
Guy reading a newspaper while riding pillion.

I head towards Vedaranyam passing Muthupet, which is marked on the map. After reaching here, the highway will take a sharp 90 deg to turn up north. I drive on the NH32. I have ridden over 50km since morning and Vedaranyam is still 40kms to go. Crossing Muthupet, the land opens on both sides. Lush greenery dotted with swamps at some location. The road width has reduced but hardly anyone can be seen on the road.

Business as usual.
Nothing makes you happier than seeing open roads!
The sun got captured by the clouds for a while.
Temple alongside the road.
Elephant statues at temple entrances are a common scene in South India.
Chasing the sun.
Jute ropes are being taken away.
Ready for paddy crop harvesting.

Cruising at a leisurely pace, I reach Vedaranyam at around 8:40 am clocking 100kms since the morning. I now head towards ‘north’ to the next big city of Nagapattinam which is around 50 km.

I reach Vedaranyam.
Magnificient structure in the city of Vedaranyam.

On the way to Nagapattinam, and I am stopped by these 2 gentlemen riding a Hero Honda Splendour. They seem excited looking at me and want to know more about me. Their excited faces tell me everything, following which they request a ‘selfie’ along with me. They take my “Insta’ handle name and agree to follow me.

About to reach Nagapattinam, and I get to see the first look of the coast since morning. It indeed looks beautiful with all its blue color. A reminder, once again, that I am on a coastal tour of India.

More temples.
I really don’t know to whom he was waving.
Arriving at Nagapattinam. The time is around 9:40 am.
Puducherry or ‘Pondicherry’ as it is called more often, 143 km to go.
Colorful as it gets.

I turn right from Nagore city and take the NH45A highway towards Pondicherry. The roads are the same as in the morning but the traffic seems to be increased a little. The roads also have reduced in width. I ride continuously for yet another hour and force myself to a stop for a hydration break at a roadside stall selling coconuts. The intense sun heat and humidity have drained a lot of fluids inside me. On the contrary, I am also hungry and wish to eat tender coconut flesh. The time is close to 11 am.

Uniquely painted ‘Hanuman God’.

The roads are single lane but well paved and so, I am able to keep a constant pace. At around 11:30 am I reach Chidambaran city and am greeted with heavy traffic. I try to escape as soon as possible and head towards the next city of Cuddalore.

In the city of ‘Chidambaram’.
beautiful roads…

It’s a National Highway but looks like a village road. At around noon, I cover 250 km of riding since morning. I quickly take a nature’s break and while I’m off the road, I phone the Royal Enfield Service centre at Pondicherry and book an appointment for my bike. I tell them to service my bike on priority and they agree. This is the 3rd time the bike is entering into service bay during this trip. Cuddalore is still 23 km more to go.

At 1:15 pm, I enter the Rooster Automobiles Royal Enfield Service centre at Pondicherry. Luckily, it is situated not far from the main highway. The team at the RE quickly jump into action as I simultaneously offload all my luggage. It’s a tough task considering the intensity of the heat and humidity. The bike is first washed to get the engine temperature down and then loaded onto the ramp for the oil change.

some serious discussion going on..

By 3 pm, I get the bike back full serviced and ready to hit the road again. I thank all the RE service staff before leaving. It’s time to head towards Chennai now.

Halting at the traffic signal was really a punishment to the body. The heat was just unbearable.
In the town of Pondicherry.
Wanted to drive on the coast but the traffic police set up barricades. They had made a vehicle-free zone.
Buying myself an ‘I Love Pondicherry’ fridge magnet before saying goodbye to the town.

Chennai sits at 136km and the time is 3:30 pm. As per my calculation, I should reach my friend’s place before it gets dark if such road conditions prevail. I get more excited by the fact that I would get to drive on the most coveted East Coast Road, popularly known as the ECR road which almost kisses the sea in its entirety.

Saw a fellow rider on my way towards Chennai.
I planned to ditch the highway for a while and instead take another route that crossed small villages.
A small detour from the main highway brings me to this place.
Sun, ready to go down.

Just before reaching Mahabalipuram, I get stopped at the entrance of Indira Gandhi Centre for Atomic Research road. I am totally unaware that this road, which runs parallel to the coast is strictly for the employees. The security staff seem to be interested in my tour and ask me when I will be releasing this part of the episode so that they can watch themselves in the video. I take a different route now towards Mahabalipuram. The time is 5 pm.

Smiling faces on the security guards.

A few moments after that, I hit the ECR road which feels like the Autobahn of Germany. The sun is about to go down and the colour gradually changes to orange. I am cruising at around 80kmph with hardly anyone on my side.

Riding on the ECR road.

The city skyline starts to appear and the traffic starts to pile up. I have put the location of my friend’s house on the map to which it still says 22kms, roughly 80 more minutes of driving at the current pace. The time is 5:45 pm.

Approaching Chennai city as the Sun sets towards my left.
Typical ‘Yello Ochre’ shaded rickshaws of Chennai.
Flowing with the traffic.
Memories of 2012 flashed back after seeing the names, where I stayed for a year in Chennai.

It was the peak hour rush traffic due to the closure of office hours and almost all of the people were on the roads. I could see everyone trying to push others back and lead the race. At one point, I saved myself from hitting one rickshaw when he suddenly swerved into my path. We both exchanged glares as there was no common language for communication. I knew I was at the loser end.

City traffic slowed me down significantly.
Riding parallel to ‘Marina Beach’. The longest beach in length pan Asia.
The traffic obstructed the clear view of the beach.

Daylight gave into Darkness and here I was, still riding to my intended location. I had clearly misjudged the 22km distance. It was taking me eternity now to reach my destination.

Finally, at 7 pm in the evening, the engine stops and I arrive at my friend’s place. It is a room on the ground floor of a building with private parking. We meet for the 2nd time, the 1st being in Mizoram. I gradually take all the load off the bike as we are engrossed in travel talk. A long night waiting for us to talk about each other’s travel stories.

My Camera is being turned off for the day as my friend gives the final thumbs up!

We head out for dinner later in the evening where I get to eat Chicken Biryani while Shiv resorts to Veg items. It’s a good hearty meal as we walk our way back home feeling heavy.

Chicken Biryani for the Dinner.

We spend some time asking each other about our future travel plans. In the heat of the discussion, time just flies away and soon it’s 10:30 pm in the night. The Chennai chapter is coming to an end, and tomorrow I will be resting my head on the pillow in a different state. There is a lot to talk and discuss but time is short. Promising to meet each other soon, we doze off for the night.

Some parts of the road will be familiar to me tomorrow as it was the same route that we had taken during our GQ ride back in 2019.

Youtube video of the Episode.