Tour of Vietnam 2023 | Day 13 | Ninh Binh – Song Tri | 356 kms

I miss my early alarm. I’m too tired, so I wake up around 6:45 AM, freshen up, pack my bags, prepare my bike, enjoy my coffee, and say goodbye to Galle, my dorm partner from a Caribbean island with a population of just 10,000.

I left around 8 am on a bright, sunny day, heading to the Ho City Citadel, about 35 km away, since it was along my route south. Soon, I was on the highway, cruising at 60-70 km/h, enjoying the speed after days of slow riding. However, I soon left the highway for the single carriageway internal roads. The weather is pleasant, and for the first time, I’m not wearing my winter gear.

I arrive at Ho Citadel around 9 am and spend nearly an hour exploring the main entrance and the museum. Although only the gates and outer wall remain, the information displayed is extensive and well-organized. Every detail is covered, and the excavated artifacts are beautifully presented in the archaeology museum. The entrance fee is 40,000 VND, and I appreciate that the information is available in both English and Vietnamese.

I leave around 10:45 am with hardly anyone around. I eat Bahn Mi for breakfast before getting back on the highway. The scenery is mostly flat with large open areas—some are flooded, others bone dry, and some have corn fields. The houses are primarily concrete. The road is in excellent condition, and I pass about four police checkpoints. I manage to keep my speed just below the 60 km/h limit, as their reflective vests make them easier to spot from afar. The highway is busy with many trucks. I set ‘Dong Hoi’ as my destination for a 450 km ride. By 3 pm, I’ve only covered 250 km and take a break for some snacks I bought earlier. As I ride on, the sun disappears into the clouds, leaving the sky dark and threatening.

I cover another 80 kilometers before it starts to drizzle around 5 PM. I am determined to reach my destination despite the intensifying rain, which forces me to stop at a petrol station to put on my rain gear. This delays me, and it’s now pitch black. I’m in an area with no hotels or homestays nearby; my preferred one is 40 kilometers behind. I decide to continue to a city about 10 kilometers away, where I find a hotel. However, when I arrive, I’m wet and damp, and they inform me that they’re fully booked. I locate another hotel within a kilometer, but it costs a steep 350,000 VND. With no other options, I take it; it’s a 3-star hotel with a private room—a first for me on this tour.

I take a hot shower to warm up after being soaked in the cold. For dinner, I have instant hot water noodles from the mini bar. Since it’s raining, I stay in, hang my wet clothes to dry, and curl up in bed to write in my diary. Sleep quickly overtakes me as I finish writing.