Tour of Vietnam 2023 | Day 2 | Hanoi – Hanoi


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Woke up at around 8:30 after sleeping late. My body felt exhausted from the flight and lots of walking. I freshened up and went straight to the well-known ‘Note cafe’ for my morning coffee fix.

The beautiful ‘Note Cafe’

The weather was overcast with a strong wind chill. It seemed like rain was imminent, but it never arrived. I enjoyed a coconut hot coffee while admiring the view from the 2nd floor overlooking ‘Ho Hoan Kiem’ Lake. I spent some time there, inscribing ‘LOVE PUNE’ on the sketchy stickers adorning the walls. Every inch of space was covered with notes, possibly from various parts of the world. After taking some photos, I moved on after pasting my stickers. I made my way to the water puppet theatre, located opposite the hotel where I had made a reservation for the night show at 8 pm. All performances were scheduled for the afternoon, so any hope of catching a morning show had vanished. Later, I strolled towards the renowned Bahn Mi 25 cafe for an authentic Bahn mi experience. This cafe is popular and highly recommended. The breakfast selection was diverse, making it initially challenging to decide. However, I eventually settled on a dish that included grilled chicken slices, pork, a sunny-side-up egg, and two cylindrical bread loaves—it turned out to be the best I’ve ever had, though I’m unsure of its exact name.

Bahn Mi
Cozy interiors of Bahn Mi 25 cafe.

After a satisfying breakfast, I proceeded to my initial sightseeing destination of the day – the temple of literature. The admission fee amounted to 30,000 VND. The entire site is arranged into 5 distinct sections and is encompassed by verdant trees, with serene water ponds flanking its perimeters. In certain areas, the ponds are centrally positioned. Observers can spot fish gracefully swimming within them. Among the ancient structures are stone remnants that illustrate facets of culture, religion, and education. Several edifices have been transformed into exhibition theaters, showcasing the rich history of Vietnamese culture.

Temple of Literature entrance.
Bonsai curated trees.
Central pond inside the Temple of Literature premises.
Urn
Beautiful Lantern
One of the deities inside the temple.
Dragon murals on top of the building.
Giant bell.
Beautiful roof eaves..
Scale model of entire Temple of Literature area.
Preserved notebooks inside the Temple of Literature.
Hand embroidery done on one of the garments at display inside the temple.
Pen art describing life around Temple of Literature.
Large drum.
Old painting on temple wall.
Kings conducting examinations of scholars in the early days.

I spend nearly 2 hours there. Later, I proceed to the Tran Quoc Pagoda, an impressive Buddhist monument situated on a lake. This pagoda features a beautiful open brick and mortar design, standing tall at 11 floors with each level built in an octagonal shape. I pay my respects at the temple adjacent to the pagoda and then head towards the Old Quan Thanh Temple, which houses a 4-ton bronze statue of an emperor inside the sanctum, crafted in the 1600s. The temple is surrounded by dense lush vegetation, showcasing unfamiliar flowering plants. The cold wind has now become unbearable. Following my visit to the temple, I walk to explore the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum which is within walking distance.

View of 11 storey pagoda from a distance.
11 storey pagoda.
Lemon tree inside the 11 storey pagoda premises.
Unique incense stick inside the temple premises.

The square mausoleum is positioned in the middle of a vast green expanse of land, utilized by the Vietnamese army for the national day parade. Strict security measures are evident, prohibiting close access to the monument. Before even entering the grounds, thorough bag screenings are conducted. A Vietnamese flag proudly waves atop a pole directly facing the mausoleum. Adjacent to the mausoleum stands the reconstructed Buddhist One Pillar Pagoda, drawing a significant crowd. A grand flight of stairs leads to a single-chamber pagoda situated on a man-made pond. Paying my respects, I proceed towards the Ho Chi Minh Museum.

Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum
One pillar pagoda.
Statue of Ho Chi Minh

The admission fee is 40,000 UND. A large statue of Ho Chi Minh stands on the first floor, with the second floor dedicated to detailing his life as a Vietnamese revolutionary leader. His story is presented sequentially with illustrations, models, and authentic artifacts. The museum closes around 4 pm, coinciding with my imminent completion of the visit.

I leave the museum and go straight to my hostel to put on my winter clothes. Then, I go to the Hanoi train street to watch the train pass through the narrow streets. I arrive around 5:10pm but notice police officers on the tracks. Suddenly, a local girl comes up to me and informs me that the street will open to foreigners around 6pm. I have no choice but to wait.

I spend some time calling my friend who recently traveled to Vietnam to inquire about the train schedules. While on the phone, I walk past a train crossing and observe numerous individuals walking along the tracks towards the restaurants.

The police stand by the crossing gate and do not allow foreigners to go through unescorted by the cafe/restaurant owner. I observe this and join an Indian family who are being escorted by a cafe owner.

Hanoi Train street.

We make way to his cafe and get ourselves comfortable. The owner brings us menu card and forces us to order. there is a lot of commotion around as news is that a train will pass soon. Just as I get my beer in hand I hear the sounds of the oncoming train. I setup my go-pro to catch the train. pass-by. Once the train goes, business is carried as usual. People throng the tracks to get themselves clicked. After my photo session, I walk my way towards the Dong Xuan wholesale market as suggested by my friend only to find out that it is shut. From there, I wat take a long walk towards the puppet theatre for my 8pm show. on the way nearer to the theatre, I stop to have a cup of hot coffee but instead I am handed over a cold one.

Witnessing the Iconic train passing on the street.

There is no mention of ‘hot’ or ‘cold’ on the menu. I realize arguing is futile since neither of us understands each other’s language. I struggle to finish the cold coffee, filled with an excessive amount of crushed ice, which proves tough on my teeth. After paying the 59,000 VND bill, I head straight to the entrance. The 8pm show is fully booked, but I manage to secure a good view of the captivating stage by paying an extra 100,000 VND. The performance is truly astonishing, meticulously staged with elaborate sets and the audience can’t resist applauding at every captivating scene. At one point, there are even firecrackers bursting from the dragon’s mouth, creating a once-in-a-lifetime spectacle. It’s a unique experience for me, witnessing such a fascinating puppet show where the actions of the puppets effortlessly convey the story without the need for language translation.

Waiting for the water puppet show to start.
Puppets dancing over water controlled by sticks by people sitting on the other side of the grey wall.
Telling interesting tales through puppets. Dragons can be see in this frame.
The master puppeteers thanking the crowd.

After the show, it’s once again the same walk along the bustling shopping street, Beer Street, and cultural streets. Everything appears just as it did yesterday, with nothing seeming new.

Locals engrossed in the shaking a leg on the streets.
Trying out some chocolate pancakes.
Fun on the beer street.
Vibrant beer street at night.
Octopus tentacles waiting to be grilled!
My Dinner. Forgot the dish name.

I have a quick dinner on Beer Street before ending the day. It’s a shredded chicken salad paired with beer. On my way back to the hostel, I purchase a 1500ml water bottle for 20,000 VND: 350ml costs 10,000VND, while the 1500ml is available for 20,000VND. The pricing logic baffles me. I retire to bed around midnight, setting my alarm for 6am.